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One Year Ago: the Long Flat

16 April 2014
One Year Ago: the Long Flat

(from my journal) Terradillos de los Templarios 16 April / St. Bernadette Leaving Carrión de los Condes Ruined Church Overlooking Carrión de los Condes Monasterio de San Zoilo, just outside Carrión de los Condes Today started out with 17.5 km of nothing. It didn’t get much better as the day went on. Lots of time to think, about what comes next, about literary projects and games, about my sins, obsessions, and demons. Sanitago at rest Accidentally left my fleece...

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One Year Ago: the Longest Walk

15 April 2014
One Year Ago: the Longest Walk

(from my journal) Carrión de los Condes 15 April A record-breaking 34km day. The walk to Frómista along the Canal de Castilla was very pleasant. It was not yet hot – we left at 7:30 – and a cool breeze blew through the trees beside the canal as Eamon, Mia, and I walked in the morning light. Lunch in Frómista, where I spent some time in the Romanesque masterpiece of the Iglesia de San Martín, built in 1035. Mia...

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One Year Ago: Some Kind of Desolation

14 April 2014
One Year Ago: Some Kind of Desolation

(from my journal) Itero de la Vega Third Sunday of Easter Hot. Dry. Sunny. The Meseta – at least what we’ve seen of it so far – has not, however, lived up to its reputation for “flat”. We had two trying climbs today, one before lunch, one after. We left San Bol early, partly with the idea of getting to Castrojeriz in time for an 11AM Sunday Mass. Just after dawn at Arroyo San Bol Approaching Hontanas The Tiny...

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One Year Ago: From Majesty to Tranquility

13 April 2014
One Year Ago: From Majesty to Tranquility

(from my journal) Arroyo San Bol 13 April Burgos Cathedral this morning. We spent about two hours wandering around through this – superlatives fail me – magnificent? glorious? fantastical? – Gothic marvel. I was a little disturbed by the decision to turn most of it into a museum, seemingly to include virtually all of the little chapels radiating out from the nave. They were, each of them, jewels. I probably took a hundred photos or more. Video as well....

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Hosanna to the Son of David!

13 April 2014
Hosanna to the Son of David!

Today, Holy Week begins with the Sunday of Lord’s triumphal entry into Jersusalem – Palm Sunday of the Lord’s Passion. Although Good Friday is coming – the Passion and Death are coming – for the moment, this moment, joy resounds as our King arrives in His city. In most parishes throughout the world, the principal Mass is celebrated by a procession of the people into the church, waving palm branches. When Jesus and the disciples drew near Jerusalem and...

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One Year Ago: to Burgos

12 April 2014
One Year Ago: to Burgos

(from my journal) The standing stones of Atapuerca, at a place called Fin de Rey.This is where the armies of two brothers – King Garcia of Navarra and King Ferdinand of Castile – met in battle. King Garcia’s defeat and death here paved the way for Castillian dominance of Spain, and pretty much marked the end of the road for the Kingdom of Navarre. Climbing Matagrande. Steep, bleak, and a military range on top. What could be more fun?...

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One Year Ago: Rain, Blood Sausage, and Wine

11 April 2014
One Year Ago: Rain, Blood Sausage, and Wine

(from my journal) Iglesia San Juan de Ortega 11 April 4:20PM Felt much better after a good sleep and three boxes of orange juice. We left Belorado in good form and breakfasted in Tosantos. It was a sunny, if breezy, walk through the countryside we’ve come to expect – brilliant green farm fields in bowl-shaped valleys. Belorado Ermita de Nuestra Señora de Pena, built into the cliffside Villambistia What remains of the once great Monasterio San Felices de Oca...

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One Year Ago: Chickens

10 April 2014
One Year Ago: Chickens

(from my journal) Belorado 10 April After the severe physical trial of yesterday, we were determined to take it easy, starting late and perhaps only going as far as Grañón or (at the most) Redicilla del Camino, some 11km distant. Before setting out, we explored the Cathedral. Santo Domingo himself is buried in the crypt, and I knelt there a while imploring the saint’s intercession for the success of my Camino. The museum attached to the Cathedral is beautiful....

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One Year Ago: Into the Gale

9 April 2014
One Year Ago: Into the Gale

(from my journal) Nájera 09 April La Rioja: Somewhere West of Ventosa, Early Morning The Vineyards of La Rioja Viola with a Shepherd’s Hut We left Ventosa at 7:30, despite our best efforts to be out by 7. Nevertheless, here we are drinking café con leche, 10km on, at 9:30 in the morning. The Streets of Nájera The Streets of Nájera Santo Domingo de la Calzada 6PM In Nájera, we visited the Monasterio de Santa María la Real, where...

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One Year Ago: a Journey to the Garden

8 April 2014
One Year Ago: a Journey to the Garden

(from my journal) Ventosa Annunciation of the Lord Short, difficult day today. The roads were actually fairly easy, but all of us are still feeling yesterday. Cliff left first, and he was soon out of sight. Charlie is taking a rest day or two. Ali, Eamon, Patrick, Petra, Viola, & I set off together. Breakfast in Logroño and then a long city slog. Ali stayed behind in the city after breakfast to find a bank, and she told us...

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Pope Francis



Servus Servorum Dei

I Peter 5:8

Fratres : Sóbrii estóte, et vigiláte : quia adversárius vester diábolus tamquam leo rúgiens circuit, quærens quem dévoret : cui resístite fortes in fide.

Brethren, be sober, be watchful. Your adversary the devil prowls around like a roaring lion, seeking some one to devour. Resist him, firm in your faith.

 

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