{"id":83921,"date":"2014-04-09T08:40:34","date_gmt":"2014-04-09T15:40:34","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/one-year-ago-into-the-gale\/"},"modified":"2014-04-19T10:43:44","modified_gmt":"2014-04-19T17:43:44","slug":"one-year-ago-into-the-gale","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/one-year-ago-into-the-gale\/","title":{"rendered":"One Year Ago: Into the Gale"},"content":{"rendered":"

(from my journal)<\/p>\n

N\u00e1jera
\n0<\/span>9 April<\/p>\n

\"La<\/a><\/p>\n

La Rioja: Somewhere West of Ventosa, Early Morning<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\"The<\/a><\/p>\n

The Vineyards of La Rioja<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\"Viola<\/a><\/p>\n

Viola with a Shepherd’s Hut<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

We left Ventosa at 7:30, despite our best efforts to be out by 7. Nevertheless, here we are drinking caf\u00e9 con leche, 10km on, at 9:30 in the morning.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a><\/p>\n

The Streets of N\u00e1jera<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\"The<\/a><\/p>\n

The Streets of N\u00e1jera<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\n

Santo Domingo de la Calzada
\n6PM<\/p>\n

In N\u00e1jera, we visited the Monasterio de Santa Mar\u00eda la Real, where some of the Kings of Navarre are entombed. It was a beautiful, grand building despite a rather ignoble period of its history after the Spanish state dissolved the monasteries. It served as a barracks, a prison, even a bull ring, before it was declared a cultural monument and given over to some Franciscans about 150 years ago.<\/p>\n

\"8730119242_1ace8753f0_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"8730119456_961aa530b3_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"8729000521_5c569569d4_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"8729001569_4742aa2256_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"8729007065_5bb767dddf_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"8729008093_79f43c53c3_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"8730128610_f5949dacfc_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"8730129168_e4ff253642_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"8729010563_68d475d88b_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"8730139306_ea6f898b10_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"8730140494_a8131aa01a_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"8730141894_81a20dc792_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

We discovered that our photo was indeed in the local paper, so everybody bought a copy (well, Eamon, Patrick, Petra, Viola, and I did).<\/p>\n

\"8730198918_a15ba0bb84_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

We spent rather too much time in N\u00e1jera, but the walk through the vineyards to Azofra was pleasant enough. <\/p>\n

\"8729054909_c3c8eca993_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"8729055737_c3b10bd3e6_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"8730177890_564abf6452_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

We had lunch there, and revivified we continued on into the most absurd headwind ever. They were listed at 30 – 40 kph, but Patrick compared them to the sorts of winds you get in a full-on tropical storm. We fought these winds for 15km, which seemed like 30.<\/p>\n

\"8729059057_e213e18632_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"8730182352_a1c6c333c5_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"8730182702_8402fa3673_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

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\"8730185480_78119c8ffb_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"8729065809_100fab1bcb_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

We passed through the surreal and apocalyptic town of Cirue\u00f1a, full of new, modern housing developments, all empty. So eerie. And then back to the wind!<\/p>\n

\"8729068417_47b63ec1a8_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"8729068597_d5d9450096_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"8729071203_6c2ee9ec55_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Laaaaa Rioja! Where the wind comes sweeping off the plains!
\n<\/em>
\nWhile Eamon and Petra surged ahead, Patrick, Viola, and I struggled forward against the wind, exhorting and encouraging each other, shouting and swearing at the wind. When we finally crested the (almost) last hill and saw Santo Domingo in the valley below us, we shouted and wept for joy.<\/p>\n

It was, we decided, the most beautiful city ever built by human hands. The streets were paved with chorizo and jam\u00f3n, the fountains flowed with vino tinto, and and river was surely cerveza! Angels sang of its wonders. If we could have danced, we surely would have.<\/p>\n

\"Could<\/a><\/p>\n

Could it be? Is it…? Santo Domingo de la Calzada? The most beautiful town in the world?<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\"Hurrying<\/a><\/p>\n

Hurrying towards the most beautiful town in the world against a gale-force headwind.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

We staggered into the city, through an industrial wasteland and falling down buildings. Far in the distance, we heard a rooster, and it spurred us on. When we finally got to the albergue, we were blithering.<\/p>\n

31km today.<\/p>\n

\n

The albergue is operated by a 900 year old confraternity, founded by Santo Domingo himself.<\/p>\n

\"Catedral<\/a><\/p>\n

Catedral Santo Domingo de la Calzada<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\n

In the evening, another party with the by now usual singing and toasts, as we said goodbye to several folks leaving us, or the Camino. Carlos gave a moving tribute to Joe, a 76-year old Irishman, who anchored him, as well as a considerable Irish contingent. Joe’s heading home to Ireland.<\/p>\n

We were quite sad to be losing Patrick, who is heading back to Miami, and Petra, who is under a time crunch and will take the bus to Burgos.<\/p>\n

\"8730203066_2dbfa2e234_b\"<\/p>\n

\"8730203356_98e3a90ddf_b\"<\/p>\n

\"8729083265_45b96deaa6_b\"<\/p>\n

\"Video!\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Video!<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

https:\/\/flic.kr\/p\/eimEMF<\/a><\/p>\n

Photos! All of them! Day 8<\/a>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

(from my journal) N\u00e1jera 09 April La Rioja: Somewhere West of Ventosa, Early Morning The Vineyards of La Rioja Viola with a Shepherd’s Hut We left Ventosa at 7:30, despite our best efforts to be out by 7. Nevertheless, here we are drinking caf\u00e9 con leche, 10km on, at 9:30 in the morning. The Streets of N\u00e1jera The Streets of […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[40],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-83921","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-camino"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p1aGBK-lPz","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":false,"jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":83918,"url":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/one-year-ago-a-journey-to-the-garden\/","url_meta":{"origin":83921,"position":0},"title":"One Year Ago: a Journey to the Garden","author":"Thom","date":"08 April 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"(from my journal) Ventosa Annunciation of the Lord Short, difficult day today. The roads were actually fairly easy, but all of us are still feeling yesterday. Cliff left first, and he was soon out of sight. Charlie is taking a rest day or two. Ali, Eamon, Patrick, Petra, Viola, &\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Camino"","block_context":{"text":"Camino","link":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/category\/camino\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"A Hidden Jewel: the Church of Santiago in Logro\u00f1o","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8729885160_0719f8c73e_b.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8729885160_0719f8c73e_b.jpg?resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8729885160_0719f8c73e_b.jpg?resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8729885160_0719f8c73e_b.jpg?resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":58165,"url":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/la-rioja-where-the-wind-comes-whipping-down-the-plain\/","url_meta":{"origin":83921,"position":1},"title":"La Rioja! Where the Wind Comes Whipping down the Plain\u2026","author":"Thom","date":"10 April 2013","format":false,"excerpt":"09 April 2013 When you think that the Camino can\u00b4t get more demanding, it usually does. We left Ventosa (which apparently means \u201cwindy\u201d, which should have been our first clue) at about 7:30, despite our best efforts to be out the door by 7. By 9:30, we were drinking our\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Camino"","block_context":{"text":"Camino","link":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/category\/camino\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":83914,"url":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/one-year-ago-an-easy-28-km-walk\/","url_meta":{"origin":83921,"position":2},"title":"One Year Ago: an Easy 28 km Walk","author":"Thom","date":"07 April 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"(from my journal) Logro\u00f1o Divine Mercy Sunday \/ 6PM Petra and Claus having breakfast at our wonderful albergue in Los Arcos Charlie, setting out from Los Arcos Today I walked 28 km. From Los Arcos it was a delightfully easy 7 km to Sansol. Onward, we walked over easy roads\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Camino"","block_context":{"text":"Camino","link":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/category\/camino\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Petra and Claus having breakfast at our wonderful albergue in Los Arcos","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8728635953_f1c53b793c_b.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8728635953_f1c53b793c_b.jpg?resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8728635953_f1c53b793c_b.jpg?resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8728635953_f1c53b793c_b.jpg?resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":83923,"url":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/one-year-ago-chickens\/","url_meta":{"origin":83921,"position":3},"title":"One Year Ago: Chickens","author":"Thom","date":"10 April 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"(from my journal) Belorado 10 April After the severe physical trial of yesterday, we were determined to take it easy, starting late and perhaps only going as far as Gra\u00f1\u00f3n or (at the most) Redicilla del Camino, some 11km distant. Before setting out, we explored the Cathedral. Santo Domingo himself\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Camino"","block_context":{"text":"Camino","link":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/category\/camino\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Waiting to get into the Cathedral shop. What 9:30 actually means is \"some time before ten\".","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8733050580_ed13c8a652_b.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8733050580_ed13c8a652_b.jpg?resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8733050580_ed13c8a652_b.jpg?resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8733050580_ed13c8a652_b.jpg?resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":83915,"url":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/one-year-ago-snow\/","url_meta":{"origin":83921,"position":4},"title":"One Year Ago: Snow!","author":"Thom","date":"06 April 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"(from my journal) Estella Easter Saturday \/ 5:20AM I woke up early and surprisingly refreshed. I wrote some post cards and will attempt to pack my bag before everyone else it up for breakfast. It\u2019s snowing. Breakfast in Estella. Eamon and Patrick in the corner. Los Arcos 4:30PM Arrived in\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Camino"","block_context":{"text":"Camino","link":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/category\/camino\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Breakfast in Estella. Eamon and Patrick in the corner.","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8728466787_7715b79efc_b.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8728466787_7715b79efc_b.jpg?resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8728466787_7715b79efc_b.jpg?resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8728466787_7715b79efc_b.jpg?resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":107804,"url":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/santo-domingo-de-la-calzada-2023\/","url_meta":{"origin":83921,"position":5},"title":"Santo Domingo de la Calzada","author":"Thom","date":"12 May 2023","format":false,"excerpt":"the crowing of the rooster in the cathedral. My introduction to Santo Domingo de la Calzada came on my first Camino. There's a town early on named for him that contains a cathedral dedicated to him. Today is his feast day, so it might be good to learn something about\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Annual"","block_context":{"text":"Annual","link":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/category\/annual\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/Santo-Domingo-de-la-Calzada.jpg?fit=530%2C707&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/Santo-Domingo-de-la-Calzada.jpg?fit=530%2C707&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/Santo-Domingo-de-la-Calzada.jpg?fit=530%2C707&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x"},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/83921","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=83921"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/83921\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":83922,"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/83921\/revisions\/83922"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=83921"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=83921"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=83921"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}