{"id":83929,"date":"2014-04-12T08:41:40","date_gmt":"2014-04-12T15:41:40","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/one-year-ago-to-burgos\/"},"modified":"2014-04-22T12:42:14","modified_gmt":"2014-04-22T19:42:14","slug":"one-year-ago-to-burgos","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/one-year-ago-to-burgos\/","title":{"rendered":"One Year Ago: to Burgos"},"content":{"rendered":"

(from my journal)<\/p>\n

\"8746771484_dbae7ea8ea_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"8745649831_78db1d4b7b_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"8745650693_c81121891b_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"8745651359_b96b5ae88f_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"The<\/a><\/p>\n

The standing stones of Atapuerca, at a place called Fin de Rey.
This is where the armies of two brothers – King Garcia of Navarra and King Ferdinand of Castile – met in battle. King Garcia’s defeat and death here paved the way for Castillian dominance of Spain, and pretty much marked the end of the road for the Kingdom of Navarre.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\"Climbing<\/a><\/p>\n

Climbing Matagrande. Steep, bleak, and a military range on top. What could be more fun?<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\"Atop<\/a><\/p>\n

Atop Matagrande. The wind howled.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\"Atop<\/a><\/p>\n

Atop Matagrande – the descent into Villalval, with Burgos beyond.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

Burgos
\n1<\/span>2 April<\/p>\n

We were continually lost during the deathmarch to Burgos, as we trudged through slums, industrial zones, and streets of shuttered businesses. All in all, not the best introduction to a city. The people we passed all seemed surly, and virtually no one returned any greeting.<\/p>\n

\"Entering<\/a><\/p>\n

\"8746791566_7313a3a0a4_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"8746791690_2eec1b0096_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"8746792122_df8e4b1869_b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"Burgos:<\/a><\/p>\n

Burgos: the LEGO tenements.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

The city centre, by contrast, is quite beautiful, and it retains much of the city’s medieval character.The cathedral itself is an architectural wonder. We went to an evening Mass and pilgrim blessing, but most of the cathedral interior is closed off and only available on Sundays or to paying tourists.<\/p>\n

If one word could sum up our experience of Burgos, it would be “crass”. <\/p>\n

\"Yes,<\/a><\/p>\n

Yes, that’s right. The Hobbiton Caf\u00e9 in Burgos. Sadly, it wasn’t open.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\"Bridge<\/a><\/p>\n

Bridge and archway into the old city in Burgos.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\"Our<\/a><\/p>\n

Our albergue in Burgos, operated by one of the oldest confraternities in Spain. They’ve been running a pilgrim hostel since the 10th century.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\"Carlos,<\/a><\/p>\n

Carlos, looking tired.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\"Viola,<\/a><\/p>\n

Viola, who did not want her photo taken.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\"Eamon:<\/a><\/p>\n

Eamon: always a smile<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\"Burgos<\/a><\/p>\n

Burgos Cathedral<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\"Burgos<\/a><\/p>\n

Burgos Cathedral<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\"Cliff,<\/a><\/p>\n

Cliff, with the cheese.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\"Breaking<\/a><\/p>\n

Breaking bread in Burgos. For some of these folks, it would be the last time we saw each other until Santiago.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\"Nope.<\/a><\/p>\n

Nope. I have no idea either.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

Reunited with both Carlos and Cliff! Sad farewell to Viola who will be spending one or two rest days here. <\/p>\n

\n

Some irritating voice in the albergue boasted that he avoided the walk through Burgos and got a cab. Felt genuinely angry at this, though I’m not sure why. The smug tone, probably, and the proud determination to avoid every hardship possible. Must think on this.<\/p>\n

Tomorrow the Meseta.<\/p>\n

All the photos: Day 11<\/a>. Includes some shaky video of Burgos Cathedral.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

(from my journal) The standing stones of Atapuerca, at a place called Fin de Rey.This is where the armies of two brothers – King Garcia of Navarra and King Ferdinand of Castile – met in battle. King Garcia’s defeat and death here paved the way for Castillian dominance of Spain, and pretty much marked the end of the road for […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[40],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-83929","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-camino"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p1aGBK-lPH","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":false,"jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":83933,"url":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/one-year-ago-from-majesty-to-tranquility\/","url_meta":{"origin":83929,"position":0},"title":"One Year Ago: From Majesty to Tranquility","author":"Thom","date":"13 April 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"(from my journal) Arroyo San Bol 13 April Burgos Cathedral this morning. We spent about two hours wandering around through this \u2013 superlatives fail me \u2013 magnificent? glorious? fantastical? \u2013 Gothic marvel. I was a little disturbed by the decision to turn most of it into a museum, seemingly to\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Camino"","block_context":{"text":"Camino","link":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/category\/camino\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Burgos Cathedral","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8746831485_a685518df1_b.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8746831485_a685518df1_b.jpg?resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8746831485_a685518df1_b.jpg?resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8746831485_a685518df1_b.jpg?resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":83959,"url":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/one-year-ago-leon-and-francine\/","url_meta":{"origin":83929,"position":1},"title":"One Year Ago: Le\u00f3n and\u2026 Francine!","author":"Thom","date":"19 April 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"(from my journal) Le\u00f3n 19 April In Le\u00f3n after a relatively easy 18km walk, made only slightly more difficult by the fact of walking on sidewalks for much of it. This is a fantastic city! It\u2019s probably my favourite so far \u2013 other than Pamplona of course. Narrow, crooked streets,\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Camino"","block_context":{"text":"Camino","link":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/category\/camino\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"To Le\u00f3n","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/9035942205_17094eaef2_b.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/9035942205_17094eaef2_b.jpg?resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/9035942205_17094eaef2_b.jpg?resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/9035942205_17094eaef2_b.jpg?resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":83923,"url":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/one-year-ago-chickens\/","url_meta":{"origin":83929,"position":2},"title":"One Year Ago: Chickens","author":"Thom","date":"10 April 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"(from my journal) Belorado 10 April After the severe physical trial of yesterday, we were determined to take it easy, starting late and perhaps only going as far as Gra\u00f1\u00f3n or (at the most) Redicilla del Camino, some 11km distant. Before setting out, we explored the Cathedral. Santo Domingo himself\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Camino"","block_context":{"text":"Camino","link":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/category\/camino\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Waiting to get into the Cathedral shop. What 9:30 actually means is \"some time before ten\".","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8733050580_ed13c8a652_b.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8733050580_ed13c8a652_b.jpg?resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8733050580_ed13c8a652_b.jpg?resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8733050580_ed13c8a652_b.jpg?resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":84007,"url":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/one-year-ago-and-rest\/","url_meta":{"origin":83929,"position":3},"title":"One Year Ago: \u2026And Rest","author":"Thom","date":"27 April 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"(from my journal) Sarria 27 April Some highway walking, followed by a beautiful walk in the forests of Galicia. Lots of rain. Francine, having had very little sleep due to a drunken Englishman snoring and occasionally shouting in his sleep,\u2026Read more \u2192(Originally posted to Pilgrims on the Way.)","rel":"","context":"In "Camino"","block_context":{"text":"Camino","link":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/category\/camino\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/14048432323_24916f9a2e_b.jpg?fit=765%2C1024&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/14048432323_24916f9a2e_b.jpg?fit=765%2C1024&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/14048432323_24916f9a2e_b.jpg?fit=765%2C1024&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/14048432323_24916f9a2e_b.jpg?fit=765%2C1024&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":84010,"url":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/one-year-ago-finding-our-groove\/","url_meta":{"origin":83929,"position":4},"title":"One Year Ago: Finding our Groove","author":"Thom","date":"28 April 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"(from my journal) Portomar\u00edn 28 April So many pilgrims now. That sentence was, in fact, my entire journal entry for today. Starting in Sarria, the number of pilgrims on the Way increases by tenfold. I saw more pilgrims today than I probably had on the entirety of the Camino so\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Camino"","block_context":{"text":"Camino","link":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/category\/camino\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Starting out in Sarria.","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/14041275052_3467eea9cf_b.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/14041275052_3467eea9cf_b.jpg?resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/14041275052_3467eea9cf_b.jpg?resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/14041275052_3467eea9cf_b.jpg?resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":83935,"url":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/one-year-ago-some-kind-of-desolation\/","url_meta":{"origin":83929,"position":5},"title":"One Year Ago: Some Kind of Desolation","author":"Thom","date":"14 April 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"(from my journal) Itero de la Vega Third Sunday of Easter Hot. Dry. Sunny. The Meseta \u2013 at least what we\u2019ve seen of it so far \u2013 has not, however, lived up to its reputation for \u201cflat\u201d. We had two trying climbs today, one before lunch, one after. We left\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Camino"","block_context":{"text":"Camino","link":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/category\/camino\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Just after dawn at Arroyo San Bol","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8859015641_6e68e8c149_b.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8859015641_6e68e8c149_b.jpg?resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8859015641_6e68e8c149_b.jpg?resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/8859015641_6e68e8c149_b.jpg?resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/83929","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=83929"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/83929\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":83930,"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/83929\/revisions\/83930"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=83929"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=83929"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/amateurmonk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=83929"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}