{"id":1346,"date":"2013-04-03T12:48:07","date_gmt":"2013-04-03T19:48:07","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/?p=1346"},"modified":"2014-03-19T13:08:09","modified_gmt":"2014-03-19T20:08:09","slug":"pamplona","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/pamplona\/","title":{"rendered":"Pamplona!"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"drop\">It\u00b4s funny, but the pilgrim hostels (&#8220;albergues&#8221;) either have wifi or a computer lab. With the lab, I can use a proper computer with a proper keyboard, but unfortunately I cannot upload my photos. <\/p>\n<p><span class=\"wpsdc-drop-cap\">S<\/span>o I\u00b4m here in Pamplona, after walking another 21.5km, staying at the Albergue Jesus y Maria, which is perhaps a block from the great Cathedral.<\/p>\n<p>Day two was more difficult than day one, but mostly due to my own lack of foresight. Yesterday I set out walking and had coffee and breakfast in the first big village I came to, so I thought I could do that today.<\/p>\n<p>This, my friends, was a tragic error. Oh, my friend Eamon and I went through village after village, but it wasn\u00b4t until 11am that we finally found a bar*.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Confusing note of the day:<\/strong> in Spain, a cafe is a bar (i.e. alcohol), whereas a bar is a cafe (i.e. coffee).<\/p>\n<p>This was in the village of Irotz, and by this time we had walked about 11km. At the bar, I had the <em>Best Cup of Coffee Ever<\/em>. I also had a bocadillo chorizo, which I can absolutely recommend as the perfect breakfast after a walk of 11 or so kilometers.<\/p>\n<p>One of the interesting things about the Camino is that people naturally form pods &#8211; usually called &#8220;Camino families&#8221;. They form and break up and re-form as the days progress. People get added and people fall away. There\u00b4s a metaphor there, but it\u00b4s now almost 10pm, and I can\u00b4t find it.<\/p>\n<p>Since I can\u00b4t upload any new photos today, I\u00b4ll just explain of the ones I uploaded last night.<\/p>\n<p>This is my current pod.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/farm9.staticflickr.com\/8111\/8615191738_ed7a88365d.jpg\" alt=\"Camino family, day 2ish\" \/><\/p>\n<p>From left to right: <strong>Eamon <\/strong>from New Zealand, <strong>Allie <\/strong>from UK (currently living in the French Alps with her husband and twin 10-year old daughters), <strong>Cliff <\/strong>the retired firefighter from Massachusetts, <strong>Kristof <\/strong>the self-described &#8220;fat Belgian&#8221;, and yours truly.<\/p>\n<p>We left Kristof at Zubiri, where he had some communications he had to take care of with the meat-packing plant that he co-owns with his brother, and the remaining four of us walked on towards Pamplona.<\/p>\n<p>Allie quickly fell behind, and Cliff surged forward. He\u00b4s not very fast, but he never takes breaks, so there\u00b4s a bit of a rabbit and tortoise thing going there.<\/p>\n<p>Eamon and I have about the same pace, so we more or less stuck together through the day.<\/p>\n<p>The terrain today was more hills (up and down and up and down&#8230;) and mud. We walked through a fairly industial area, followed by more bucolic countryside with the occasional village, until we hit the town of Villava. This is a delightful medieval town, built up over the centuries. <\/p>\n<p>Villaga transitioned smoothly to the suburbs and then the city of Pamplona.<\/p>\n<p>In the &#8220;bucolic countryside portion&#8221;, Eamon and I took a detour to visit the fortified hill church of San Esteban in Zabaldika.<\/p>\n<p>It was a steep climb up the hill to the church, but the church itself was a spiritual gem. Photos will follow (I promise) whenever I get wifi. A deeply meditative place, where I felt the full weight of the centuries and of the communion of saints pressing upon me.<\/p>\n<p>The church was very tiny, but the interior altars and furnishings were absolutely exquisite.<\/p>\n<p>The nuns who run the place rather indulgently let me climb the steeple (obviously built for defense, with a tight sprial stair and arrow slits) and ring the bell, cast in the 14th century. <\/p>\n<p>And then Pamplona! Oh my goodness. Words cannot do it justice, though Hemmingway tried. I took perhaps a hundred photos which will give you some idea.<\/p>\n<p>Keep looking at the Flickr link on the left to see when I upload the photos for today!<\/p>\n<p>Tomorrow we will stay for the 9:30am Mass at the Cathedral and then press on, perhaps to Obanos or Puenta la Reina.<\/p>\n<p>So much to say, but my time on the computer is metered, so I will leave off and wish you all a blessed night.<\/p>\n<p>P.S. I must return to Pamplona. One day isn\u00b4t enough. I doubt a month would suffice to scratch the surface. It\u00b4s simply one of the most beautiful cities I\u00b4ve ever seen.<\/p>\n<p>P.P.S. Kristof arrived in Pamplona this evening to join us.<\/p>\n<p>P.P.P.S. This Spanish keyboard layout is making me crazy.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/04\/20130416-180105.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/04\/20130416-180105.jpg\" alt=\"20130416-180105.jpg\" class=\"alignnone size-full\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/04\/20130416-180203.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/04\/20130416-180203.jpg\" alt=\"20130416-180203.jpg\" class=\"alignnone size-full\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/04\/20130416-180313.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/04\/20130416-180313.jpg\" alt=\"20130416-180313.jpg\" class=\"alignnone size-full\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/04\/20130416-180406.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/04\/20130416-180406.jpg\" alt=\"20130416-180406.jpg\" class=\"alignnone size-full\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/04\/20130416-180455.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/04\/20130416-180455.jpg\" alt=\"20130416-180455.jpg\" class=\"alignnone size-full\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>It\u00b4s funny, but the pilgrim hostels (&#8220;albergues&#8221;) either have wifi or a computer lab. With the lab, I can use a proper computer with a proper keyboard, but unfortunately I cannot upload my photos. So I\u00b4m here in Pamplona, after walking another 21.5km, staying at the Albergue Jesus y Maria, which is perhaps a block from the great Cathedral. Day [&#8230;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[11,12],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1346","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-pilgrim-reports","category-thom"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1346","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1346"}],"version-history":[{"count":15,"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1346\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1695,"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1346\/revisions\/1695"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1346"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1346"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1346"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}