{"id":21013,"date":"2026-05-06T13:39:29","date_gmt":"2026-05-06T20:39:29","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/?p=21013"},"modified":"2026-05-06T13:39:30","modified_gmt":"2026-05-06T20:39:30","slug":"via-lemovicensis-farewell-dordogne","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/via-lemovicensis-farewell-dordogne\/","title":{"rendered":"Via Lemovicensis: Farewell, Dordogne"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><span class=\"wpsdc-drop-cap\">I<\/span>t was so cold in our little country g\u00eete last night that my shoes did not fully dry out from yesterday. There&#8217;s nothing worse on a Camino than slipping your feet into vaguely damp shoes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">It was a slow morning. We didn&#8217;t actually leave until 8:30, which might be a new record for me. But again, today was supposed to be short.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">First item on the agenda was to walk the not quite 4 km from La Gratade to Fraisse for the third time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">It was overcast and cold, cold enough that I wore my gloves for a while in the morning. Rain was predicted for most of the day, although it wasn&#8217;t actually raining when we left. Luc and Louis-Marie were ahead of me, and Herve was behind me. Just after I passed the familiar patch of Calla lilies, the rain began.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">One year ago today, the results came back from the Mayo Clinic. There was now no doubt, or only a sliver of one. The neurologist said that, barring a miracle, Francine would be dead within three months. Given the rapid advance of her symptoms, almost certainly sooner.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">I had been praying for a miracle, for the intervention of one of Francine&#8217;s dearest heavenly intercessors, Servant of God Dorothy Day, but I confess that I did so with less and less hope as the days went on. Many days I felt hopeless, defeated, abandoned. And yet, there would always be some small sliver of hope, of comfort, of solace in the Lord.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">And the sheer volume of visitors on many days brought me great comfort. Certainly, until closer to the end, visitors always perked Francine right up. It was eye-opening to see how many people she had touched and how loved she was.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">I arrived in Fraisse for the second time in two days at about 9:10. By now I had overtaken my two French friends, and the rain had stopped. The church was still locked.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Within minutes I had walked through the rest of the village and roadwalking into the countryside.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">At just past 9:20, I entered the hamlet of Les Fontenelles. It seems to consist of two houses about half a kilometer from each other. The number on the second house was the year Francine was born.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">More and more, the road stayed in the trees. Drizzle was intermittent through most of the morning, though it never lasted for more than a few minutes at a time.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">At 9:45, the Camino joined a two-lane rural highway. The shoulder was a strip of mowed grass. It was wet enough that I preferred walking on the road until a car was in view.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">This took me through the scattered farming hamlet of La Cabane, which was surrounded by open fields and vineyards. Here, the Camino turned onto a narrow asphalt road that soon took me back into the trees.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Just after 10 AM, I had already left the trees for more open fields and vineyards. I walked through Pintou, another farming hamlet, and by now the hiker hunger was definitely upon me.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">At one point the road took me past piles of timber on one side, and a flowering meadow on the other. Quite the dichotomy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Shortly after this, I passed a place called Bazange. It appears to be a holiday camp tucked into the forest with wooden cabins around a small lake.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">At about 10:30, I entered the village of Monfacucon. I was probably at the halfway point of my short walking day. If there was any chance for second breakfast, this was it.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The village church looked more like something you would see on the Spanish Meseta rather than in France. Alas, it was locked.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Although there was nothing listed on my various mapping apps, there were signs all over the village proclaiming the existence of a caf\u00e9. I finally found it, but it was closed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">I returned to the covered bus stop by the church (it was drizzling again) and dug through my pack. Frustratingly, I could not find the granola bars that I had seen just yesterday. I can&#8217;t imagine what could have happened to them. So instead, I had the last of my baguette for second breakfast.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Louis-Marie and Luc caught up with me here and then walked on while I finished my baguette.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">As I sat on that little bench, the most extraordinary thing happened.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">As I was packing up to go, the mayor of the village drove up and invited me for coffee. By this time, it was already well past 11 AM, and I had to politely decline. It was a delightful conversation, partly in French, partly English, mostly gesticulating. He was super enthusiastic about my pilgrimage and wished me a buen Camino.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">As I walked out of the village, the wind started up, and the temperature dropped noticeably. In retrospect, I probably should have taken him up on that coffee!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">But now, it was roadwalking through forest and field in the cold and drizzle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Around 11:30 I passed by a rambling farmstead that may or may not have been called Le Bousquet. As I did the thought occurred to me that I could not remember the last time I saw a cow.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">There are last times for everything, aren&#8217;t there? And rarely do we know when we&#8217;re doing something that it will be the final time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">At about 11:45, I passed through the very posh hamlet of Moncazeau. The very first house here had an explosion of Calla lilies in front, along with a tile pointing the Way. We have a similar tile in the garden at Pistachio House that depicts a pilgrim.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Up ahead, I could see a very steep hill covered in grape vines. Of course, the Camino went straight up. No asphalt now, just a very rough and deeply rutted dirt and gravel road.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Halfway up, I had to stop and catch my breath. And I trained on the hills of Tacoma.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">I will say, though, that the view from the top was magnificent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The dirt road continued on through the vineyards. In the distance near a small lake, I spotted a number of brown smudges. Cows!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Sometime afternoon, as the road entered forest again, the sun began to break through the clouds. Of course, minutes later as the path transitioned once again to asphalt, and I could see a couple of French pilgrims in the distance ahead of me, the clouds returned with drizzle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">I passed them in about 12:30, near the hamlet of Puy Servain. This place is so posh that the pilgrim g\u00eete has a solarium.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Just before the hamlet of Calabre, the Camino took a sharp turn and effectively circled back in the direction we had just come. The sign at the turn said that it was 5 km to Port-Sainte-Foy, and 1075 km to Santiago.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The path now was short grass. At least the rain had stopped.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">By 12:45, the road was dirt and mud through the forest. After a while, the clay like mud was starting to build up under my shoes, requiring periodic attempts to scrape it off. My friends caught up with me at this point, and we walked together for a little bit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">We passed a funny little round tower, that I&#8217;m sure was once a windmill. It looked like it was made of Lego.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">In all the gloom of that day, a year ago, I also remember a brilliant smile that Francine had. My sister had sent her a Lego set \u2013 flowers and a trellis. Francine laughed with delight, but of course she already lacked the capacity to build it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The box was put where she could see it, a bright cheerful reminder with all the other flowers crowding her hospital room.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">We reached the suburban hamlet of La M\u00e9tresse about 1 PM and left the mud behind for gravel. Shortly thereafter, we passed a large sign welcoming us to the Commune of Port-Sainte-Foy, but our surroundings still looked like fields and vineyards to me. The Camino now continued on grass again.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Would my shoes ever dry? Or are we now in the part of the Camino where everything is always damp? The grass did do a pretty thorough job of cleaning the mud off my shoes, if not my pants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">And then it was back to asphalt. In the midst of the fields and trees, we were seeing houses much more frequently. The hills, too, were more frequent \u2013 and larger.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">It&#8217;s the top of one such hill, we came to the suburb (?) of La Briat. My friends fell behind me as I climbed that long hill. At a place called Peyrute, the Camino left the road and continued through the grass.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Once again, the sun broke through the clouds.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">At 12:25 PM, I passed another round stone tower. This one I was less sure of. It had more defensive vibes than windmill vibes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The grass path ended in a wall of trees and a slab of concrete that continued on as a sort of bridge over a narrow ravine. It was soon obvious that this was, incredibly, a concrete path through the forest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">I don&#8217;t know who laid this path or what possessed them to do so, but it descended steeply through the forest. With all of the forest leaves and other gunk on it, there were places where it was treacherously slippery.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Eventually it ended in a little lookout over the valley before plunging back down into the forest on a vaguely safer trail of dirt and mud. Even with my poles, I still think I slid a good 20% of the way down. Eventually, the slope flattened out somewhat and it was an easier go.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">My shoes were once again covered in mud, though I needn&#8217;t have worried about it, since this was followed by a track through the vineyards on grass. In the distance, I could see a tall, sharp steeple.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">By now, Louis-Marie and Luc had caught up with me. It began to rain in a serious way as we walked together into the town.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">We walked through a lovely riverside park and finally up a set of steps into Port-Sainte-Foy. There was a brasserie at the top of the steps, so the three of us piled in like drowned rats for a tasty beverage. It was 2 PM.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Thirty minutes later we left and split up, they to find their g\u00eete, and me to visit the church. It had stopped raining by now. I found the church shoehorned in on a badly paved side street. It was locked.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">My next priority was to refill my food stash. There was a supermarket not far from the church.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">It was pouring rain when I left the supermarket. I made my way back to the river, where I walked across a long bridge over the Dordogne river. I have now left the Dordogne d\u00e9partement and walked into the city of Sainte-Foy-La-Grande in the Gironde d\u00e9partement.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">My first stop was the Church of Notre Dame. Originally built in the 13th century, possibly on the site of a 9th-century church dedicated to Sainte-Foy (one of my favorite saints).&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The church was largely destroyed in 1561 by the Huguenots. The current church was built, using pieces of the old one, in 1686 and then restored and considerably expanded in the 19th century.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">This is a magnificent Gothic revival church that has some bits of actual Gothic here and there, principally in the form of statuary. The stained glass windows from the 19th century are stunning.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Whoever restored this had a very fine eye for detail. There are some lovely painted bits in the sanctuary and the side chapels that have the subtlest hint of gilding. It&#8217;s just beautiful.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">I prayed in here a while, and I lit a candle for Francine in front of a little shrine of Saint James.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">From there, I met Herve at a nearby caf\u00e9 and had my long delayed second breakfast! It was already after 4 PM at this point.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Then to the most amazing place I&#8217;ve ever stayed on Camino. The bathroom alone is unbelievable.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Our hosts are so very kind and generous. The dinner they prepared was out of this world. And all of my clothes are clean and dry. We&#8217;ll see about my shoes in the morning.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Date:<\/strong>&nbsp;06 May 2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-video\"><video height=\"1080\" style=\"aspect-ratio: 1920 \/ 1080;\" width=\"1920\" controls src=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/download_1778078694445.mp4\"><\/video><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Place:<\/strong>&nbsp;Sainte-Foy-La-Grande&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Today started:<\/strong>&nbsp;La Gratade<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Today\u2019s Photos!<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><br><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4528-1024x768.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-21014\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4528-1024x768.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4528-300x225.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4528-150x113.jpeg 150w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4528-768x576.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4528-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4528-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4531-768x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-21015\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4531-768x1024.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4531-225x300.jpeg 225w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4531-113x150.jpeg 113w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4531-1152x1536.jpeg 1152w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4531-1536x2048.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4531-scaled.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4535-1024x768.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-21017\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4535-1024x768.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4535-300x225.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4535-150x113.jpeg 150w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4535-768x576.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4535-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4535-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4541-1024x768.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-21018\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4541-1024x768.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4541-300x225.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4541-150x113.jpeg 150w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4541-768x576.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4541-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4541-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4543-1024x768.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-21019\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4543-1024x768.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4543-300x225.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4543-150x113.jpeg 150w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4543-768x576.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4543-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4543-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4551-1024x768.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-21020\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4551-1024x768.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4551-300x225.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4551-150x113.jpeg 150w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4551-768x576.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4551-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4551-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4552-1024x768.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-21021\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4552-1024x768.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4552-300x225.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4552-150x113.jpeg 150w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4552-768x576.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4552-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4552-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4555-768x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-21022\" 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srcset=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4662-1024x768.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4662-300x225.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4662-150x113.jpeg 150w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4662-768x576.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4662-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4662-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4670-1024x768.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-21054\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4670-1024x768.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4670-300x225.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4670-150x113.jpeg 150w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4670-768x576.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4670-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4670-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4675-1024x768.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-21055\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4675-1024x768.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4675-300x225.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4675-150x113.jpeg 150w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4675-768x576.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4675-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_4675-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>It was so cold in our little country g\u00eete last night that my shoes did not fully dry out from yesterday. There&#8217;s nothing worse on a Camino than slipping your feet into vaguely damp shoes. It was a slow morning. We didn&#8217;t actually leave until 8:30, which might be a new record for me. But again, today was supposed to [&#8230;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":21032,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[11,41],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-21013","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-pilgrim-reports","category-via-lemovicensis"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/21013","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=21013"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/21013\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":21056,"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/21013\/revisions\/21056"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/21032"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=21013"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=21013"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=21013"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}