{"id":21728,"date":"2026-05-23T13:21:07","date_gmt":"2026-05-23T20:21:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/?p=21728"},"modified":"2026-05-23T13:21:08","modified_gmt":"2026-05-23T20:21:08","slug":"via-lemovicensis-into-pamplona","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.thomryng.com\/camino\/via-lemovicensis-into-pamplona\/","title":{"rendered":"Via Lemovicensis: Into Pamplona"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

U<\/span>p and packed by 6:30, breakfast at 7:00, and out the door by 7:30. It was important to get out early, because the forecast called for 40\u00b0 C (104\u00b0 F) again today in Pamplona, our destination. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

It’s possible that 7:30 was even too late. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Herve and I recrossed the medieval stone bridge back to the Camino and were on our way. Once we passed the last of the houses, the Camino followed a rough dirt and stone path through the woods. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The air was still quite cool. we crossed over a stream on a stone bridge near a little waterfall. The Camino was briefly a path of stones set in concrete before returning to dirt and stone (and mud).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For the last couple of weeks when I was in France, I had occasionally seen pink or white hearts laying in the path before me. These were petals of blossoms that had fallen off of the nearby bushes. Whenever I saw one, I would think of Francine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sometimes they would show up right after I’d come to some sort of conclusion or decision, and I sort of saw this as Francine’s stamp of approval.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Along the section of trail, I saw them for the first time in Spain, and I felt her closeness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Camino turned onto a gravel and then asphalt road that took us past a magnesium refining facility. This is easily the least scenic part of the entire Camino Franc\u00e9s. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

After we passed by the main part of the facility, the Camino turned onto a dirt and gravel path beside high grass.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

By 8 AM, we were back on a gravel road with a view of the valley below, with its strip mine and its scenic village.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We descended by means of stairs cut into the side of the hill and reinforce by railroad ties. I don’t remember the mine being this close to the Camino before, but it was right up on the stairs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Facebook continues to be inconsistent with showing me last year’s memories, but it was about this time that I finally built the Lego Botanicals set that my sister Melanie sent us. Francine absolutely loved it when I showed her the built set.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For me, though, building it was intensely therapeutic. I often find that working with my hands is an effective way of bringing me out of a depressive episode or even a bad mood. It’s almost like it rewires my brain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This is, I think, why I took up woodworking during the Covid lockdowns. But of course, in the mental state I was in a year ago, power tools were probably a bad idea. Not to mention the fact that I was spending all of my time at the hospice facility, and they generally frown upon loud noises there.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Camino took us past another little waterfall and then onto a Stone Path uphill through the trees to the hillside Hamlet of Ilarratz. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Then it was roadwalking.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At about 8:20, we walked by the old abbey of Santa Luzia. It’s for sale.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ten minutes later, we passed through the charming, flower-filled hamlet of Ezkirotz. After this, it was back to a stone and gravel path, and then soft dirt through the trees. The path joined a gravel road past a colorful mural welcoming us to Basque country.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Of course, I’ve been in Basque country for almost a week!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And then it was again a path through woods. And so through the morning went the cycle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At about 8:45, we passed by the entrance to the village of Larrasoa\u00f1a. We discussed stopping for second breakfast, but both Herve and I decided we weren’t quite ready yet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It was roadwalking, now, and definitely warm out in the open. The road wound its way uphill and through the hillside hamlet of Akerreta by about 8:55. It is quite a pretty place, but not only was the church locked, it was padlocked as well.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

From here it was back to the rough stone and gravel path, downhill through the trees. I kept spotting little heart-shaped stones, and so I felt Francine’s closeness again on this part of the route.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At about 9:15, the Camino took us down a very steep path of wide stones set in concrete. I’m pretty sure this has been like this since my first Camino. It’s much better to walk on than concrete, although it is still a little slippery when wet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When we got to the bottom of the hill, we came to the banks of a river. Camino continued on through the woods in the usual mix of dirt and gravel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We followed beside the river for about a kilometer. I found the churning sounds of whitewater soothing as I walked.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As the sounds of the river faded into the distance, we could now hear sounds of trains and automobiles, somewhere vaguely off to the right. Still we walked through the forest. The trail was much smoother and more consistent, but very occasionally it would go up or down a sharp rocky slope before continuing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Eventually, we rejoined the river, and the sounds of technology faded away again.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Eventually, we left the forest for the usual mix of woods and open countryside. The highway just beyond the river was much more noticeable now. for a while, we were even walking between the river and horse pasture.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At about 9:40, the Camino suddenly turned and crossed the river on a bridge into the hamlet of Zuri\u00e1in. Here we stopped for second breakfast at a place right next to the bridge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Somehow, we spent half an hour there.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The way out of town was on a gravel path next to the highway. The path ended, and the Camino then took us down at highway on ramp and over the River Arga once more.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I think that entire section is new in the last couple of years.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Then it was down a wide concrete alley through a mixture of suburban and rural homes and stands of trees.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The concrete abruptly ended at the ruins of an old industrial building, where I remember a food truck used to be parked in past years. I think it was the place I first ate Spanish chorizo. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The path now was mostly dirt with stones through the woods. The birdsong was nearly drowned out by the sound of the highway, out of sight somewhere to the right.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In quiet moments, I could hear the rushing of the river in the canyon below us. There were fewer and fewer trees, and the sun beat down. The air was perfumed with blossoms.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At about 10:40, we passed through the hamlet of Irotz \u2013 a tiny place with very large buildings. The little church here was locked. From here, it was roadwalking on asphalt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We bridged the river a third time and then continued on gravel back into the woods. By now, it was about 10:45. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Once again, we slowly lost tree cover. We emerged in the village of Zabaldika, and here I took a little detour to the hillside monastery church of San Esteban.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Much as Francine had done a decade ago, Herve continued on the main path, and we planned to meet later when the paths reconverged.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The way up is a precarious and narrow stone path. I arrived at just about 11 AM.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This little church, of such simple construction, dates to the 13th century. The main altarpiece (retablo) is from the 16th century and has some gorgeous polychrome painting on the statues.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The two side altars are very<\/em> Baroque. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Somehow, it is a place that has always brought me a sense of peace and prayer. This is the fourth time I’ve climbed up there, and with the exception of the first time when I climbed with my friend Eamon from New Zealand, I have always climbed alone.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The crucifix in the church is surrounded by little Post-it notes that pilgrims have left over the years, prayers and wishes. I left one of Francine’s cards here at the foot of the crucifix with other mementos left by past pilgrims.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

From here, the Camino descended a rough dirt path through the tall grass before running along the top of a ridge for a bit. I could see Pamplona in the distance between the hills. The air was stupidly hot. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The path was now very rocky and full of loose shale as it descended back to the main route.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

By 11:30, I was in the hamlet of Arleta and clearly back on the main path, but I did not spot Herve.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I decided to push on. The path was dirt, mostly under cover of trees. The Camino continued to run high on the ridge, and across the valley on the opposite side I could see new housing developments.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Twice I was passed by joggers and once by a trio of cyclists. The trees grew more intermittent as the path descended into the valley.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At about 11:45, the Camino passed under a highway through a long muddy tunnel. Then it was up a set of stone steps and onto a gravel road.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The road paralleled the freeway below for perhaps a kilometer or so, while the gravel became asphalt. As the road pulled away from the freeway, it slowly descended through tree cover to an arched stone bridge over the Ultzama Ibaia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It was now 12:05. I crossed the bridge into the town of Trinidad de Arre and met up with Herve there. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

I prayed in the Basilica, which I always find a kitschy kind of place, but very serene.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There was a lady outside of the church offering wax seals for our pilgrim passports. When she asked me what color wax I wanted, I told her to choose for me. She looked at me and then chose a mix of orange and purple, the exact colors of Francine’s favorite hiking shirts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

From here it was walking the pavements through three successive once-towns now very urban suburbs: Arre, Villava, and Burlada. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The closer we got to the city, the more new construction we saw.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Just after 1:05, we crossed the Magdalene bridge over the river. The area has gotten a lot more overgrown than I remember it, but then again in the past I have come through here when the trees had very few leaves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Soon, we were walking through the old city walls. It’s hard to get an idea of the scale of these from a photo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pilgrims pass through the gap between the inner fortifications and the outer fortifications, and then walk through an old drawbridge gate and around the corner and suddenly find themselves in the heart of the city of Pamplona. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

At 1:25 we arrived at Jesus y Maria, the municipal albergue. Herve and I stood in a long line with other pilgrims to get our bunks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After showers, Herve, Amy, James from London, and I headed over to Caf\u00e9 Iru\u00f1a for a late lunch. We all ended up ordering the full menu, so this was more like dinner at lunchtime.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The main plaza outside was hosting the world triathlon finals, so there was an awful lot of noise which impeded conversation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As we were having our dessert, we were joined by Katie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After dinner\/lunch, we all sort of went our separate ways, although Herve and I repaired to the bar in the basement to meet with Hemingway. We ended up discussing Shakespeare and Baudelaire over beers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After this, Herve had to do a little bit of shopping, and I headed over to the cathedral.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There was a pop musical ensemble practicing in the cathedral when I arrived.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I find Pamplona cathedral fascinating. Nobody actually knows when the original was built, the one that the Moors demolished in 924, though there has been a bishop here since the late third century. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

It was rebuilt in the early 11th century, and then a Romanesque cathedral replaced it in the 13th century. It was damaged soon after it was built during a war, and so the rebuilding began in the new Gothic style. The building work continued right through the late 14th and 15th centuries until 1501.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And then, a new neoclassical fa\u00e7ade and walls were raised around the Gothic structure in the 18th century. Effectively, there is a Gothic cathedral completely enclosed by a neoclassical cathedral. The outside looks nothing like the inside.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There’s some poetry there \u2013 building something new outside that doesn’t destroy what was originally within. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Of course, the poetry breaks down a little when you realize that most of the altars and retablos are actually Baroque.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The chapel of Saint Christine contains a glorious Flemish Gothic retablo with the crucifixion that I find an amazing piece of work, with paintings of figures from the Old Testament surrounding a statue of the crucified Lord. It gets me every time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There’s another Gothic retablo which includes paintings of scenes of the life and passion of Christ, but the center statue is Saint Thomas the apostle placing his hands in the wound in Christ’s side. I don’t know what it is about this that gets to me, but it does. Part of it is that I’m partial to Gothic art, but I think part of it is just the power of the scene, and the artist’s interpretation of it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I prayed first Vespers of Pentecost in the cathedral’s chapel of the Holy Sacrament. As I was leaving, a rosary broke out in the main sanctuary. I presumed that this would be followed by a Mass.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

My suspicions were born out, as people began to pour into the cathedral at about 7:45 PM. Meanwhile, a large group of what I presume to be parishioners, or possibly a confraternity, processed around the interior of the cathedral behind a banner and torches chanting the Litany of the Saints, which concluded with the Salve Regina.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So this is how I ended up at the (simple) Vigil Mass of Pentecost at the cathedral in Pamplona. This particular Mass was the “charismatic” Mass, which kind of threw me for a loop. It could not have been more different from the rosary and procession that preceded it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It turns out that the musical group that was practicing earlier was in fact the charismatic choir. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Mass was celebrated by his excellency Florencio Rosell\u00f3 Avellanas, O. de M., Archbishop of Pamplona and Tudela.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tomorrow the plan to beat the heat is to leave at 6 AM. We will see how that goes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Date:<\/strong> 23 May 2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n