Walking the Camino de Santiago
The shells led us to the central plaza of Obanos, dominated by the church of San Juan Bautista de Obanos. It was locked up – and honestly we were too tired for visiting – but three years later Francine and I would have a memorable visit indeed, where we would learn about the Mystery of Obanos and meet San Guillermo. […]
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We don’t arrive in Obanos until six o’clock. At this point, it’s just sheer determination that we’re still walking. Everybody wants a rest, but nobody wants to stop for long for fear that we won’t be able to get going again. The shells mark the Way. Date: 04 April 2013 Place: Entering Obanos (Navarra, Spain) Map!
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At about 5:30 we finally left Eunate. It’s almost 5km to Puente la Reina, our destination for the evening, which means that even at the best of times we won’t arrive before 6:30. This is not the best of times. We’re exhausted. Feet numb, I staggered through the rain and wind, practically on auto-pilot. Cliff is struggling with blisters, and […]
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Although the plan of the church of Santa María de Eunate is basically octagonal, the side of the octagon with the apse itself protrudes as its own quasi-hexagon. Here you can see some of the delightful details of the exterior of the apse including the gargoyles, romanesque arches, and alabaster windows. Date: 04 April 2013 Place: Eunate (Navarra, Spain) Map! […]
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I was fascinated by the cobbled walkways through the arcades outside surrounding Santa María de Eunate. Flat rocks, all of a size, but turned lengthwise into the ground. I wonder if they were reused from something else? If we were to dig one out, would we find inlaid designs on the faces, repurposed from some older, more elegant floor? Or […]
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The interior of the Iglesia de Santa María de Eunate is lit by sunlight shining through alabaster windows. Apologies for the poor quality of the photo. Someday I pledge to get a better one! The inside might not look like much, but here’s what I wrote in my journal that day: The rough pews faced a plain altar, and a […]
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Here I am standing in the octagon of pillars and arches surrounding the isolated Iglesia de Santa María de Eunate. No one knows why they were built here. The church itself dates to the mid-12th century, though the first documented evidence of its existence comes almost 300 years later. Based on the unusual octagonal plan, it was most probably built […]
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The church of Santa María de Eunate is a wonder, no mistake. Leaving aside a moment its octagonal floorplan, one is struck by the surrounding colonnade of pillars and arches. These have no roof and seemingly no purpose at all. Those who have studied this church say they were almost certainly repurposed from an earlier cloister. Unfortunately for the theory, […]
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The church of Santa María de Eunate is basically in the middle of farmland. Other than the church itself, there’s only one other building on the site. I understand that this building, now a retreat center, was once an albergue. It’s too bad that it wasn’t still, because we certainly would have stayed here. This first glance immediately reveals something […]
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You can see these kinds of door plates and knockers all over Navarra, a testament to the Catholic faith that runs deep through this land. Many, like this one, are old and worn as the countryside these villages inhabit. They speak to tradition and permanence. Others, however, still have their crisp edges and shine – a reminder that the faith […]
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