Walking the Camino de Santiago
The street winds through town, and we approach the parish church. Although I was unable to actually find a name for this church anywhere, the fact that its address is Number 1 Calle Santa María leads me to presume that it is the Iglesia Santa María something or another. Although it’s difficult to tell, the street is lined with small […]
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Across the street from Number 41, we saw our first pulpería of the Camino. And what, you may ask, is a pulpería? Why, it’s a place that serves pulpo, Galician-style boiled octopus tentacles snipped into bite-sized pieces and drizzled with oil and Spanish paprika. Normally, this is served with a cup bowl of chilled Ribeiro wine. It’s absolutely amazing. Once […]
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Another door! Here we catch the briefest view of the garden courtyard of Number 41 Calle Santa María, the street the Camino takes through the old central part of Cacabelos. This demonstrates exactly why I find liminal spaces so fascinating… you never know what lays beyond. Date: 24 April 2016 Place: Cacabelos (Castilla y León, Spain) Today’s map, part 1:
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Those who have been following this blog for any length of time know of my fascination with liminal spaces: doors, gates, even windows. I found this one in Cacabelos an interesting study in the old and the new. The wiring on the outside reminds me a little of the wiring on the interior of my parish church, built in 1920. […]
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Following our second breakfast, Rebecca and Francine chat as we walk through the town of Cacabelos. Like many of the towns in the valley of El Bierzo, it’s human-sized, with a very neighbourhood-y feel. It’s almost cozy. To me, this is how towns should be built. Date: 24 April 2016 Place: Cacabelos (Castilla y León, Spain) The morning map:
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This is the charming little courtyard of La Moncloa de San Lázaro, where we had our second breakfast in Cacabelos. On the off chance I ever stay in this town, this is probably where it would be. The whole place is just… cozy. Not an albergue, mind you, but a proper hotel, this would be a place for a once-a-week […]
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Cacabelos is a bustling town of about 6,000 people. We stopped into La Moncloa de San Lázaro for our second breakfast. This place is a hotel with an attached café/bar, winery, and shop. We spent all too brief a time in this cozy place warming ourselves by the open fire, café con leche in hand. Date: 24 April 2016 Place: […]
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For sheer advertising signage acreage, you can’t beat these four (count ’em!) billboards next to the Camino approaching Cacabelos. I’m sure that the Hotel Villa de Cacabelos is lovely, but it’s not really what we were looking for. Particularly at nine o’clock in the morning. And seriously… this is overkill for a gravel road, even if it is on the […]
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One of the more unusual signs on the Camino, and not nearly as gaudy as some we’ve seen recently. At first I thought it was one of the ubiquitous markers to fallen pilgrims. It claims that Santiago is 194.5 km away. Is it true? Who knows. The one truism on the Camino regarding distances is that nobody knows what they […]
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The El Bierzo countryside, like my much-beloved Navarra and La Rioja, is covered in vineyards. The vines are pruned back in a way that always makes me think of zombies, thrusting their hands up through the soil and crawling their way to the surface. Or is it just me? Date: 24 April 2016 Place: Between Camponaraya and Cacabelos (Castilla y […]
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