Author: Thom

After Foncebadón, the Camino continues its upward trajectory into the hills, eventually peaking at the highest altitude on the Spanish Camino. We walked up into a cloud. These horses – practically pegasi, it seems to me – appear quite content in their misty home. This was two years ago today. Date: 22 April 2016 Place: Between Foncebadón and Cruz de […]

Foncebadón’s eclectic albergue is famous up and down the length of the Camino. Hopefully, it will be the core of something good in this village of ruins. Might be my favourite sign on the Camino. Happy Easter to all! Date: 22 April 2016 Place: Foncebadón (Castilla y León, Spain) Today’s map! (Though we won’t be trying to make is so […]

Most of the buildings in Foncebadón look something like this. There are a few still standing or which have been restored, but by and large the village is in ruins. I’m given to understand that twenty years ago, the nearby village of Rabanal del Camino (which I call the “Disneyland of the Camino“) looked very much like this. That village, […]

Upon entering the village of Foncebadón, we are greeted by a cross in the Maragato style so common to this region. It seemed appropriate to post this particular photo for Good Friday. Most of Foncebadón is in ruins, with only a couple of buildings restored. Virtually all of them are in this photo. One of these is the very peculiar […]

This photo is pursuant to yesterday’s post “When the Road Becomes a River” and that of the day before “Fuente“. This is the Fuente del Peregrino – the fountain of the pilgrims – upon which a pilgrim has waxed philosophical about the terrain and the weather. If you’re having a difficult time reading it, it says “when your path becomes […]

Not for the first time, the Camino became a little damp. The path we walked up the hills towards Foncebadón became more of a stream than a path. Here we see Francine swimming upstream. And yet, she seems to be smiling. This is very similar to the conditions I encountered in 2013 on my way up the Alto de Perdón […]

There are a number of fountains in the hills above Rabanal, but this one was by far the largest. Although they are on the Camino, my assumption is that they are meant for the cattle and sheep which roam the hills. What do you think? Date: 22 April 2016 Place: Between Rabanal del Camino and Foncebadón (Castilla y León, Spain) […]

On the way up from Rabanal, we pass a number of markers memorializing those whose pilgrimage is at an end. On a bench are two small brass plaques for Irish pilgrims who died in 1997 and 2009. Just a few steps beyond, we come to this marker for Luis Torres Hinojosa who died in 2013. I’ve posted many of these […]

The Camino after Rabanal continues its climb. Here you see Francine and Stijn in the early morning mist. Our first goal of the day lies beyond, a makeshift monument on a Camino’s second highest point in Spain which has somehow become one of the great touchstones of the Way. Onward! Date: 22 April 2016 Place: Between Rabanal del Camino and […]

On a cool, drizzly morning, we bid a fond farewell to Rabanal del Camino. This is definitely one of my favourite stops on the whole of the Camino, with its monks and shops and relaxing atmosphere, and Refugio Gaucelmo is one of my favourite albergues. Until we meet again! Date: 22 April 2016 Place: Rabanal del Camino (Castilla y León, […]