Walking the Camino de Santiago
Despite being more than a thousand years old, Melide is a thoroughly modern town; there’s very little left of its medieval charm. Occasionally, though, you find bits of the older town amidst the 19th and 20th century buildings. I kind of love this fountain, with its whimsical lions looking for all the world like they’re practicing their embouchure. It is […]
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Prompted by the ever-smiling Ernesto, we stopped into Pulpería A Garnacha for a late lunch. And what a lunch! Pulpo: boiled octopus tentacles snipped into bite-sized pieces and drizzled with olive oil and paprika. And the wine was served in bowls. Bowls! I think we also had some Caldo Gallego. In any case, I would highly recommend! Date: 30 April […]
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The town of Melide is justly famous for its pulpo – boiled octopus. This is Ernesto. His pulperia is located just as you enter the central part of the city proper. It includes a window overlooking the Camino route, through which you can see him prepare this tasty dish. Of course we stopped in for a late lunch. Date: 30 […]
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This Roman bridge over the Río Furelos leads us into the village of the same name. Furelos is slowly being absorbed by the nearby city of Melide. In the 12th century, the village and its pilgrim hostel were under the ownership of the knights known as the Hospitallers of San Juan. It should therefore be no surprise that the parish church, […]
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This is the main entrance to the little Igrexa de Santa María do Leboreiro in the village of the same name. I have passed this church three times over the past decade, and as far as I can remember, it has never been open. If the tympanum is anything to go by, it should be pretty spectacular. Date: 30 April 2013 […]
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We left the rural blacktop road for an even more rustic road, which eventually led us to the tiny village of Leboreiro, officially named Santa María do Leboreiro. The village has a Cruceiro, a tiny church dedicated to Santa María (of course), and no café. The village, which now has a population of just under 70 people, was once much more […]
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I don’t know for sure where this is, except that it’s somewhere after the sign announcing that you’ve entered the Province of A Coruña. It might be Campanilla. In any case, you can see signs of the weather we’ve been fighting all morning since we left Palas de Rei: rainy and windy with occasional bursts of storm. I noted in […]
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The book is now available! More information here. Introduction These rules are hard-won through experience. The emphasis here is on practical – these will not necessarily ensure a more spiritual or fruitful pilgrimage, but perhaps a less needlessly difficult one. If you’re looking for some of the spiritual lessons I learned, those are on the page titled Cultivating Pilgrim Spirituality. […]
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Because of course there’s a real place called Casanova. I mean, there are probably dozens, but it was still a weird moment to see the sign. Note that the plinth is of the same native stone as the building in the background. Plus: only 60km to go until Santiago! Date: 30 April 2013 Place: Casanova (Province of Lugo, Galicia, Spain) […]
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This is a close-up of the Romanesque window of the little church from yesterday. As I said yesterday, I find this little window absolutely exquisite. It seems to be the only remnant of the original decorative elements prior to the many renovations and restructurings of this church. I wonder what happened to the rest of the stonework? Date: 30 April […]
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