Walking the Camino de Santiago
I caught up with Anne at a little stone bridge over a creek. She was putting her shoes on, having sat on a convenient stone and soaking her feet for a bit in the water. This seemed like a capital idea, and I took her spot as she vacated it. The water was cold! But it was like a tonic […]
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Just after 10:30 that morning, I was walking down a dirt road through a forest that gave me serious Mirkwood vibes – all spindly trees wrapped in thick, gray-green moss – when I suddenly realized that I had left my Camino shell medal at the gîte this morning. I was so upset and angry at myself that I actually texted […]
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The little village church of Notre Dame des Noyeraies de Cras (Our Lady of the Walnut Groves in Cras) was unfortunately locked up tight. The heat outside was already fierce, and we certainly could have used a few moments of rest inside the cool air of the church. Instead, we had to settle for the shade of the porch and […]
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Bruno and I arrived in the village of Cras at about 9:45. No café, and even the church was locked up. It was a little early for lunch, but we stopped on the church steps for some cookies. Anne passed us as we sat, and I left Bruno sitting at the church as I went to find water. Cras isn’t […]
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The terrain today was gentle hills for the most part. There were few big ups or downs, mostly just an undulating path through pasture land and woods. And it was absolutely beautiful. Give me a dirt or gravel path through meadows and farms and woods, and I can walk all day. Date: 03 September 2023 Place: between Labastide-Murat and Vers, […]
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Sometimes it’s roadwalking, and sometimes it’s practically bushwhacking. The walking surfaces of the Via Podiensis in France are perhaps even more varied than those of the Camino Francés in Spain. On this particular day, there were still segments of roadwalking – I feel like it wouldn’t be the Camino in France without them – but they were much reduced compared to […]
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There were three of us in the gîte that night: myself, Bruno, and Anne. Anne runs a gîte in Moissac, but she’s taking some time off to walk. We never did actually see the gîte owner here, but she left pretty clear written instructions. I slept like a baby, and I woke up today feeling refreshed and energized. The three […]
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We checked into our gîte by phone. We never even saw the landlord. After the usual pilgrim ablutions, we headed out to see if we could find someplace for dinner. The options in the village were limited, so we ended up going to a local burger-and-pizza joint. I had a pretty tasty burger, although I found it interesting that all the burgers […]
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While I sat in the cool village church of Sainte-Catherine de Labastide-Murat, Bruno was busy finding a gîte for us. By the time he texted me, I was (mostly) recovered. The church interior is highly decorated in a 19th-century revival of a classic medieval Romanesque look, and I found it mesmerising. Date: 02 September 2023 Place: Labastide-Murat, Lot Département, Region […]
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I arrived in Labastide-Murat after an exhausting 30 kilometers. The last little bit to the village was uphill, and I’m pretty sure an arthritic three-legged dachshund could’ve beat me. I was barely functioning when I arrived in the village church at 10 minutes before 3 o’clock. Fortunately, the door was open, and so I stumbled in seeking solace and rest. […]
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