Pilgrims on the Way

The Camino leveled out again, and a couple of locals passed us on horseback. These were the first equestrians I’d seen on Camino – though they wouldn’t be the last – and they weren’t even pilgrims. They say about 2% of all pilgrims ride the Camino horseback, but at least in the seasons we’ve gone, this estimate seems high to […]

Here we are, walking through one of those “scrub” areas I mentioned yesterday. And it’s inexplicably uphill. And in the heat of the sun. This is Francine’s first climb, though there would be many worse ones in the days to come. She looks pretty determined to make it up! Date: 21 April 2013Place: between Murias de Rechivaldo and Santa Catalina […]

Back out on the Meseta. We are gradually coming to the northwestern edge of this great plain, and rough scrub begins to appear every now and again. The bright red clay on the path ahead is the native soil of this area, and in 2016 we found out how horrible it is when wet. Today, however, was warm and dry. […]

We stopped for second breakfast in the village of Murias de Rechivaldo, where even the beer signs feature the Camino. Is the distance cited accurate? Who knows? Google maps seems to think so. For the record, we did not have beer for breakfast. Date: 21 April 2013Place: Murias de Rechivaldo (Province of León, Castilla y León, Spain)Today started: Astorga (Province […]

Just outside of Astorga, the Camino passes this charming little hermitage/chapel. On some maps, it is designated simply as “Ermita del Santo Christo”, but its proper title, at least according to the sign and sello there, is “Ermita del Ecce Homo” – Hermitage of ‘Behold, the Man‘. Not often one gets a Catholic shrine named after words spoken by Pontius […]

With a final glance back at the cathedral, we followed the Camino through Astorga’s maze of alleys and narrow streets. After crossing the N-VI highway, we emerged in relatively open countryside and shortly thereafter the official end of the city. Date: 21 April 2013Place: leaving Astorga (Province of León, Castilla y León, Spain)Today started: Astorga (Province of León, Castilla y […]

The photo quality isn’t great, but you can perhaps get the general idea of this comical gargoyle on the Catedral de Santa María de Astorga. It is, I suppose, a sheep or lamb. It looks positively cartoonish, and I find it delightful. Date: 21 April 2013Place: Astorga (Province of León, Castilla y León, Spain)Today started: Astorga (Province of León, Castilla […]

Because it faces onto a very tiny plaza, it was impossible for me to get a decent photo of the entire façade of the Catedral de Santa María de Astorga. You might get a decent shot with a drone, or if you were on the roof of one of the buildings across the plaza. Here’s my best take – and […]

We spent a restful night in the albergue of the Asociación de Amigos del Camino, where we shared a room with Smith and Tara. Early the next morning, we made our way to the Plaza de Eduardo de Castro, which contains both the Cathedral and this place. This is a museum, originally designed as Astorga’s Episcopal Palace by Antoni Gaudí […]