Pilgrims on the Way

In the village of Rabé de Las Calzadas, we passed this charming little hermitage, the Ermita de Nuestra Señora del Monasterio. This latest iteration was built in the 16th century. It is all that remains of a monastery that once stood on this site and was named for a statue of Virgin and Child that was found here in the […]

On our way out of Tardajos, we passed this fountain in a little square. Throughout northern Spain, you will see these fountains, once the main source of water for villagers and pilgrims alike. Some have signs indicating that the water is not potable, but by and large you can still drink from them. Or at least I did. Hint: don’t […]

The name might be a mouthful, but this is the lovely parish church in Tardajos. Parts of the building date to the 13th century, though it has had many additions and changes through the centuries. The most recent, the current bell tower, dates to the 18th century. It’s built like a fortress on high ground, no doubt as a defense […]

By the time we arrived in Tardajos, it was past 1:30pm, and we were ready for lunch. We stopped in this odd little place, full of various animal skulls and taxidermied heads, including a truly impressive boar. We ran into some familiar faces, including Carlos. We stayed about a half hour in the outside seating before heading back to the […]

We’re under a highway bridge near the banks of a river, probably the Río Arlanzón. There’s quite a bit of pilgrim graffiti along the Camino, some of it simple, some quite detailed, and some that has become positively iconic over the years. Much of it provides advice or encouragement, while some of it is just whimsical. This odd little artwork […]

I’m not quite sure exactly what is going on with the road, water, and barricades here. Flooding, perhaps? There was nothing like this here in 2016. In any case, I think it’s a great photo of Eamon. From here, the route meanders towards a stream under a highway bridge a little further on. Date: 13 April 2013Place: between Burgos and […]

The Camino path finally diverged from the road and struck out across the countryside. While the terrain is an easy flat, those ridges do look a little intimidating. They’re like wrinkles, stretching across the plains. We would have to clamber over several of them before we were through. Date: 13 April 2013Place: between Burgos and Tardajos (Province of Burgos, Castilla […]

By the time we passed this church, La Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Pilar, the dense urban environment had suddenly opened up into fields and parklands. I thought the weather sunny and warm, though Eamon wore hat and gloves. As we continued walking, it soon became apparent that the road we’re walking along is some sort of border, because we […]

The route out of Burgos meanders along some major avenues before passing through the University, with its tree-lined boulevards and walkways. To stick to the route, you must keep a sharp eye out for the ubiquitous yellow arrows. This one is pained on a much older marker, the stone cross. You see these as ancient and medieval boundary markers all […]

The walk out of Burgos was much more pleasant than the walk into the city. Although parts of it were an intensely urban landscape, these sections seemed more prosperous and more alive. We didn’t leave the cathedral until about 11:30, so it was getting on to be pretty warm. Still, it was sunny and beautiful, and at least in the […]