Pilgrims on the Way

After yesterday’s difficult and long walk, we initially decided that today we would take it easy. We didn’t even start walking until almost 10 AM. Our little party now consisted only of myself, Eamon, and Viola. We had expected to end the day in Grañón, the first town we came to, as we had heard great things about its albergue […]

Being a Christian pilgrimage route, the Camino has many, many roadside crosses and shrines. This particular one exists as the result of a medieval boundary dispute between the towns of Santo Domingo de la Calzada and Grañón. This site gives one popular version of the story: It is said that, many centuries ago, there was a dispute over an extensive […]

To the west of Santo Domingo de la Calzada, the Camino returns to a rural landscape. Before my first Camino, I didn’t even know what sheep smelled like. Now, I can’t see a photo like this without remembering the smell. Not unpleasant, but perhaps not optimal. Date: 10 April 2013Place: between Santo Domingo de la Calzada and Grañón (La Rioja, […]

Santo Domingo de la Calzada is so named because the saint spent his life improving the Camino road, and in particular he built the first causeway (calzada) over the Río Oja where this bridge now stands. Over the centuries, a series of flash floods on the river washed away several bridges on this site, and the current one mostly contains […]

Following our tour of the cathedral and museum, it was time to bid a tearful farewell to Patrick and Petra. Patrick was heading home to Florida; he would finish his Camino in subsequent years. Petra had to bus ahead to Burgos to be sure she would make her plane out of Santiago in time. This was the last time I […]

In the Cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada For the final photo from the cathedral, I can’t resist this delightful Romanesque relief of Saint John, Apostle and Evangelist. He is, after all, my Confirmation saint! He’s hanging out in a side chapel, I believe. The relief is of his full body, along with a description that simply says “S […]

In the Cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada This wonderful statue sits within the saint’s sepulchre in the cathedral dedicated to him. You can read a version of the chicken story here. Although in 2016 I purchased a small version of this statue – it’s probably two inches tall, if that – I would dearly love to get a […]

In the Cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada The Cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada is famous for having the only Vatican-approved chicken run in the world. Permission was granted by Rome in the twelfth century to house the descendants of the original legendary pair here. On October 6, 1350, Pope Clement VI granted an indulgence for the […]

In the Cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada As an aid to wash that horrible taste from yesterday’s photo out of your mouth, I present the original high altar and reredos from the Cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Sculpted by the Renaissance genius Damiàn Forment, it was completed in 1537. At some point in the 20th century, […]

In the Cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada Probably the most jarring and horrible thing I’ve seen in an old Spanish church may be found in the Cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada. At some point, the magnificent Renaissance main altar and reredos were moved from the apse into the north transept and replaced with… with this. It’s […]