Pilgrims on the Way

Shortly after crossing a modern steel and concrete bridge over the busy A-12 highway, we cross a rather more modest and, dare I say it, human-scaled bridge over a small stream with the rather imposing name of Regacho de Dorrondoa. Although the bridge is meant to call back to its Roman and Medieval antecedents, my understanding is that this was […]

While this is clearly not a Roman aqueduct, it’s definitely in territory that they once developed. During our Caminos in Spain, we’ve seen a great many complex modern irrigation systems, but I think this was the only one that wasn’t on the Meseta. And it’s certainly the tallest. It’s enough of a landmark that it’s even on the map below. […]

This represents the coming together of two threads in Camino life: ubiquitous graffiti and the ongoing discussion of what constitutes a “true pilgrim” The “true pilgrim” is generally understood as not being, for example, a hiker or a tourist. Some of these discussions get pretty crazy, along the lines of the “no true Scotsman” fallacy. This graffiti, found in an […]

The Roman road from Cirauqui has clearly seen better days. While I’m sure this was a useful and lovely bridge when it was built, and perhaps for centuries thereafter, it’s now rather a chore to cross. Apparently the warrantee ran out after the first thousand years or so. Having said that, it’s definitely better than no bridge at all. Date: […]

My apologies for the fuzziness. As we walked the Roman road from Cirauqui, we could see this lovely bit of landscape art. I tried to zoom in on the image, with the results you see here. I don’t know if this still exists, as I don’t remember seeing it on our 2016 Camino. Date: 05 April 2013Place: between Cirauqui and […]

The Camino follows a variety of trackways, roads, and highways. This part of the Way may not look like much, but it is the remains of a two thousand year old Roman road. In the valley after Cirauqui, the Camino follows it for several kilometers. In the background you can see a more modern highway bridge. It was along this […]

So. Cirauqui is a town of sunny whitewashed homes and new construction. What’s the first photo I take when we arrive? Something old, dark, and shadowy. I’m incorrigible. What this monument is meant to designate, I don’t know. When I took the photo, I thought it might be something Benedictine, but now I don’t think so. Date: 05 April 2013Place: […]

We walked on through garden and vineyard and wide open fields and even past a walled cemetery before catching a sudden flash – a shining city on a hill. This proved to be the village of Cirauqui, a place confined to a single hill and crowned with its fortress-like Iglesia de San Román. It’s about 10:30 in the morning, and […]

Just a quick look back at the small town/large village of Mañeru. There’s nothing particularly unique about this place – it’s like a dozen other Navarran villages we’ve passed through. I am curious, though, why it was built right on the farmland rather than on the defensive hill behind it. Perhaps this indicates a later settlement? Date: 05 April 2013Place: […]