Pilgrims on the Way

The Camino is home to hundreds of small monuments – historical and religious markers, roadside crosses, and memorials of fallen pilgrims. And this one, in the forests of Navarra? It seems to have the same text in three languages (Basque, Spanish, French?) asking pilgrims to pray the Salve Regina to Our Lady of Roncesvalles. So here we are. Sing along, […]

While the principal inhabitants of the surrounding meadows appeared to be sheep and lambs, there were a couple of areas where we ran into these guys. Ponies? Horses? I don’t know the difference, but they were furry and friendly. Date: 02 April 2013Place: Between Espinal and Viscarret (Navarra, Spain) MAP! Here’s the route I’m walking today (Roncesvalles to Zubiri).

We snuck off the road for a few moments into a meadow with a gorgeous view of the mountains and surrounding forests. Here we see Eamon, sandwich bag still firmly in hand, marveling at the beauty surrounding us. First lesson of the Camino: take time and occasionally get off the road. You never know what you might find. Date: 02 […]

At some point while we were in Espinal, the rain turned to sleet. This is Cliff, in the sleet, having just readjusted his shoes and pack. I think he’s got the same Osprey pack I do. Cliff is a retired firefighter from Massachusetts, walking on some new replacement hips. He joked that he was walking the Camino while they were […]

I met Eamon and Cliff in the woods just before Espinal. Eamon is from New Zealand, and he had come to a crossroads in his life, the solutions to which he hoped to find on the Camino. He had walked from Saint-Jean, though I was told that the pass was closed. We walked together until León – a distance of […]

And here we are at our second quaint little village of the day, Espinal. It was about here that I actually started conversing with some of my fellow pilgrims. You’ll meet a couple of them in the coming days. There’s not much to the village – this photo probably contains half of the village’s buildings. Date: 02 April 2013Place: Espinal […]

Although it’s a little slippery, this slab of granite has my vote for the best bridge on the Camino. It crosses one of the several little streams in this area, which are also replete with old fences and cattle gates. Have I mentioned that I was utterly charmed by Navarra? Date: 02 April 2013Place: Between Burguete and Espinal (Navarra, Spain) […]

This stretch of the Camino alternates between forest and farmland, and it’s absolutely lovely. Ahead of me on the path are two gentlemen who I would soon meet, and who would loom large in my life in the coming days and weeks. But more about them soon. For now, drink in the vistas of Navarra. Date: 02 April 2013Place: Between […]

I admit that I may have been humming (or even singing!) Bilbo’s Old Walking Song about now. Navarra has the best Camino signs, and I was immediately charmed by this view. Only 18km to Zubiri! Date: 02 April 2013Place: Between Burguete and Espinal (Navarra, Spain) MAP! Here’s the route I’m walking today (Roncesvalles to Zubiri).

From Burguete the Camino takes a hard right down a farm access road and into the woods. This is the first proper overland bit. As you can see, it’s raining and the stream is somewhat swollen with the springtime melt. Despite the weather, I could not have been more excited. Date: 02 April 2013Place: Leaving Burguete (Navarra, Spain) MAP! Here’s […]