Pilgrims on the Way

If you’re polite and respectful, the nuns of the Iglesia de San Esteban de Zabaldika will allow you to climb the tight, made-for-defense spiral stone stair cut into the bell tower, with its arrow slits and slippery steps. The sight that greets you at the top includes the oldest church bell in Navarra, and a larger, later one as well. […]

The elderly nuns who manage the Iglesia de San Esteban de Zabaldika are a delight. They provide post-it notes for pilgrims to write prayers upon and stick upon the old wooden panel on which this crucifix is mounted opposite the entrance of the church. I’ve no idea how often they remove them, or what they do with them once they’re […]

This side altar in the Iglesia de San Esteban de Zabaldika features two statues of the infant Jesus, the larger in the arms of Saint Joseph His foster-father, and the smaller (but more prominently placed) in the arms of the Blessed Virgin Mary, His mother. I spent some time here in prayer. Date: 03 April 2013Place: Zabaldika (Navarra, Spain) Maps! […]

The Iglesia de San Esteban de Zabaldika is a spiritual gem. The walls are thick – it was built to withstand raids by the Moors – and its interior is smaller than you might expect. Eamon and I walked around the small space, taking dozens of photos, before stopping a bit to pray before this rustic, but beautiful, altarpiece. Twelve […]

The grounds around the Iglesia de San Esteban de Zabaldika were full of wild daisies, and a pilgrim had left their pack and sticks by the entrance to the church. I spent a moment frolicking amongst the wildflowers before heading in myself. Date: 03 April 2013Place: Zabaldika (Navarra, Spain) Maps! On the way from Zubiri to Pamplona.

First of all, apologies for not posting yesterday. After fighting an impending migraine most of the afternoon, I finally lost the fight. Not feeling great today, but much better than last evening. Here, we finally crest the hill and spy the Iglesia de San Esteban de Zabaldika. This hilltop Romanesque church dates from the 13th century, and it really hasn’t much […]

The path up to Zabaldika is a narrow, steep trail up the side of a hill. You can’t really see what’s on the top until you’re pretty much there. Since we really had no idea what was up there, I at least was feeling like maybe taking this detour wasn’t such a great idea. In 2016, I couldn’t get Francine […]

One of the first lessons I learned on the Camino was “take every detour”. This was the moment of decision, the moment when Eamon and I took our first detour from the main route of the Camino. While the rest of our little family pressed ahead, we decided to see what Zabaldika was. Of course, on the maps, it’s Zabaldica. […]

Along the Camino are many monuments to fallen pilgrims. This marks the place where Rosanna di Verona ended her Camino in 2006. Requiescat in pace, Peregrina. Date: 03 April 2013Place: between Irotz and Zabaldica (Navarra, Spain) Maps! On the way from Zubiri to Pamplona.

Our breakfast in Irotz was late enough – 11am – that following my café con leche, I had more of a lunch. It was my first Spanish chorizo, warmed up and on bread. It was amazing, what with all of the juices from the chorizo soaking into the bread, and now I’m hungry just thinking about it. Anyway, this is […]