Pilgrims on the Way

A closer look at the lovely, if somewhat run-down, Iglesia de Santa María del Manzano – which I feel might mean the Church of Saint Mary of the Apple Trees. Honestly, I’m not even entirely certain that it’s still in use as a church. Date: 14 April 2016 Place: Castrojeriz (Castilla y León, Spain) Today’s map:

As we approach Castrojeriz, the Camino passes in front of the famous Iglesia de Santa María del Manzano. The earliest records of this church are in the tenth century, but it was already an old and powerful establishment by that time. The current building dates 1214. You can also get a pretty good idea of how steep the hill of […]

After leaving the ruins of San Antón, we follow the Camino through the intermittent rain towards the distinctive hill and town of Castrojeriz. There’s an old castle ruin on top of the hill, but the town itself wraps around the base. This is our planned stop for the evening, though we were uncharacteristically fuzzy about where in town we were […]

Walking around the ruins a little bit brought me to what I think was the apse of the monastic church. Heck, it could be part of a bell tower for all I know – there really isn’t much left here. In any case, I thought it was beautiful. Date: 14 April 2016 Place: San Antón (Castilla y León, Spain) Today’s […]

I‘m standing in the middle of the road, looking up through the ruins of San Antón. Three years before, I’d taken a very similar photo, but a dove flew through the window as I was taking the shot. You can see that here. This place really evokes for me the lonely centuries through which the Camino has passed. It is […]

We ate our packed lunch in the ruins of San Antón. As you can see, the road goes right through the ruin. Apparently, in medieval times the bit on the left was the monastery and church, and the bit on the right was the pilgrim hostel. Since 2002, there has been a primitive albergue located within the ruins on the […]

Van is provided for scale. This is all that remains of the Monastery of San Antón, founded in 1146. Most of the current surviving structure was built in the 1400s. This was the main Preceptory of the Antonian Order of monks in Spain. This Order was dedicated to the care of pilgrims and the care of those who suffered from […]

As we walk past the last of the San Miguel ruins, Francine turns around. I like to think to blow me a kiss, but it’s far more likely she’s trying to figure out why I’m so far behind. Date: 14 April 2016 Place: Between Hontanas and San Antón (Castilla y León, Spain) Today’s map:

This treeless stretch of the Meseta just past Hontanas is no fun in the heat. Then, as you round a hill, an eerie sight comes into view. This bare ruin to the left is known as San Miguel. I’ve been told that it’s the remains of a castle, or a convent, or even a mill. What seems clear, however, is […]