Pilgrims on the Way

As Nina and I chatted, the kilometers flew by. Almost before I knew it, we were in the village of Saint-Jean-Mirabel. Here, we found a plinth in the middle of the road with this larger-than-life-sized statue of Saint Joan of Arc. Just around the corner, there was another piece of public art, a giant red bicycle. It looked about the […]

I first met Nina on the 25th, about four days before we took this selfie after our picnic lunch from the food truck behind the church. We ran into each other several times over those days, and even stayed at the same gîte. I would end up walking with her for most of this afternoon. Nina and I had some […]

At about noon, I arrived in the village of Saint-Félix. Here in 1944 the Nazis massacred many of the civilians of the town – on one occasion using howitzers – because of a suspected Maquis cell in the village. When I visited the church I discovered that while Saint Felix is depicted, the church is actually dedicated to Sainte-Radegonde. I ran […]

That morning the Camino passed cornfields, meadows, large irrigation ponds, and some small villages. Sometimes, though, this was my view. It very much reminded me of the walks that Francine and I take through Point Defiance Park in Tacoma. After the steep hills of earlier in the day, this was pleasant and easy. Date: 29 August 2023 Place: between Montredon […]

Just about 11 in the morning, the Camino took me through the first cornfield I’d seen in France. It would not be the last. Although I would pass by (or through!) them every so often over the next few weeks, there would come a time towards the end of the French portion of my walk where it was nothing but […]

Normally the signage on France’s GR (grande randonnée) hiking routes are straightforward blazes, usually red and white. The system is simple and elegant, but sometimes you need to convey a little more information than which direction to turn. This sign, with its notice of a “dangerous road section”, was very helpful indeed. Date: 29 August 2023 Place: between Montredon and […]

It’s worth taking a look at the ceiling over the altar in the little Chapelle Sainte-Marie-Madeleine de Guirande. The murals most probably date to the building work done in the 12th and 13th centuries. In the center, we see Christ seated in majesty. Below Him, to the left is the martyrdom of Saint Namphase, holding his entrails, while to the […]

This little chapel, more or less in the middle of nowhere, was mentioned in the 10th century as a dependency of the Abbey of Conques, about a day and a half’s walk from here. The chapel was effectively rebuilt in the 12th and 13th centuries, with additional work done in the 15th century. The medieval walls and ceiling retain much […]

So says this delightful sign. I think this is the village of Lacoste, but I didn’t actually see any sign but this one. For the record, there are no chickens in this photo, but there are two unleashed dogs, more proof that nobody anywhere follows the posted directions. Date: 29 August 2023 Place: between Montredon and Saint-Félix, Lot Département, Region […]

From Montredon, it was back to roadwalking, at first downhill and then back up again. And so it continued, up and down. I’m not a fan of roadwalking, as my longtime readers know, but it’s difficult to complain when you have views like this on the Way. Date: 29 August 2023 Place: between Montredon and Saint-Félix, Lot Département, Region of […]