Pilgrims on the Way

26 April We walked through the Galician mists today, to the magnificent monastery of Samos. While we were enjoying our second breakfast, who should come ’round the corner but my NZ buddy Eamon! Lunched in Triacastela and convinced him to accompany us to Samos. He was not disappointed. Galicia seems like home – almost a faerie-tale country – and the […]

25 April Today was a day of slow, grinding climbs, as we crossed our final mountain pass of the Camino. The town of O Ceibreiro is more or less at the top, and we arrived at the same time as two busloads of German tourists. The view was amazing. The village was the site of a eucharistic miracle in the […]

24 April Fun hiking morning with Smith and Terra, Santiago, and Stella and Diego (from Brazil). In Villafranca del Bierzo, we mailed home a box of souvenirs and various unneeded items. Lunch in Pereje with Smith and Terra, Ian from Glasgow (who we met walking into the village), and Anya from Nuremburg. Then, the heat set in. Progress slowed to […]

23 April On paper, this should have been our easiest day. Unfortunately, a heatwave hit. We arrived in Ponferrada in good shape and good time, but there we found the old Templar castle. We waited until it opened at 11, and we spent over an hour exploring both the castle and its collection of medieval manuscripts. Not to mention the […]

22 April 2013 One of the great traditions of the modern Camino is to leave a stone at Cruz de Ferro, an iron cross marking (more or less) the highest spot on the Camino route in Spain. This, we did today. In an earlier entry, I talked about my stone, and some of the meanings behind it. I put down […]

We’ve been without wifi for several days now, so I thought I’d post a quick note in lieu of full updates to follow later. We’re currently having breakfast in a bar in Samos, across the street from the stupendous monastery where we spent the night. The bar has wifi (obviously), but we need to get on our way. Chant Mass […]

21 April 2013 Francine´s second day, and the Benedictine connection continues. We were misinformed about the local Mass schedule, and it briefly appeared that we would have to wait until 10am for a Mass, meaning we wouldn´t be on the road until 11 or later. Fortunately, we were told that there was an evening Mass (7pm) at our intended destination, […]

20 April 2013 After breakfasting in the Benedictine hotel, we walked to the bus station – maybe 1.5 km – and caught the 9:30 bus to Hospital de Orbigo. We walked back across the town to Puente de Orbigo and walked across (and back across) the astonishing medieval bridge there. There´s a jousting field next to the bridge. Jousting is […]

19 April 2013 Arrived in Leon after a relatively easy 18 km walk, made only slightly tiring by the fact that much of it was on city sidewalks. This is a fantastic city, probably my favourite so far other than Pamplona. Narrow, crooked streets, bursting with life and song and commerce. The cathedral is glorious. There´s an audio tour, of […]