Pilgrims on the Way

Although not as common in France as in Spain (I blame the Revolution), these roadside crosses were ubiquitous in the Medieval and early Modern eras. They were used as everything from boundary markers to meeting places to places of judicial summons to roadside shrines. This particular example is a 21st century copy of the 15th century original, which is now […]

Shortly after taking my leave of the unexpected horse, I passed by this wall of birdhouses on my way to the village center. Not just a birdhouse, a bird housing community! A bird village! Bird apartments! Anyway, I think it’s a lovely idea. For the record, I don’t remember seeing any actual birds here, but perhaps they were all out […]

I did not expect the Camino path to run through somebody’s backyard, but that’s exactly what happened as I approached the village of Golinhac. This horse was just hanging out there, and he didn’t seem particularly surprised to see me. Just after stopping to say hello and take a couple of photos, I continued through the backyard, past the garage, […]

The Camino winds its way all through Europe, with a myriad of routes eventually coming together into the four great branches in France from Paris, Vézelay, Le Puy, and Arles, as well as the routes throughout the Iberian Peninsula. Whatever route you walk, the kind of path you’re on constantly changes. One minute, it’s an asphalt road; the next, it’s […]

The tiny village of Fonteilles came and went without a café. In fact, the route actually bypassed the village entirely! I only saw two pilgrims this morning, and one of them was walking in the other direction, towards Estaing. On the other hand, I did see a fair number of cattle. Meanwhile, the Camino had gone from a constant climb […]

Somewhere along the Way, this little shrine sits in memory of a man who used to sit here. I sat here myself, though only for a moment, and prayed and snacked. I also stowed my poncho, as the rain had stopped – though I did put on my rain jacket, just in case. In English, the sign erected by the […]

Switchback after switchback, up and up I went, sometimes on paths, and sometimes on roads. I was sweating in a way that I hadn’t since climbing to the Chapel of the Magdalene almost a week ago. A brief bit of flat ground brought me to Montégut, a little dot on my map that I hoped might have a spot to […]

The Camino headed inland and uphill through forest and field, switchback after switchback. And some of this was silly steep. Just before 8:30 AM, I passed these ruins. They were in the forest, though, as you can see, the forest was also in them. The only inhabitant was a feral cat. This was a romantic (if melancholy) reminder that people […]