Pilgrims on the Way

At the very edge of Melide we find this marker, which indicates 50km to Santiago. What I find interesting about this marker – at least according to Google maps – is that it’s still in place and hasn’t been replaced by one of the newer markers. Only 50km to go! The 800km journey from Roncesvalles is now almost 94% complete. […]

Like many of the major towns along the Camino, Melide is incredibly urban… until suddenly it’s not. You step out from a neighbourhood of close-packed row houses off the sidewalk and onto a dirt path. To our left, just past a hidden Carmelite chapel, is the municipal cemetery. This marks the end of Melide in more ways than one. Date: […]

When we arrived in Melide, it appeared as though they were setting up for market day. This statue of the Madonna and Christ child was under a large pavilion, on which was emblazoned the words Concello de Melide – Municipality of Melide. It seemed as though we were one day early for the local outdoor market – a theme that […]

Despite being more than a thousand years old, Melide is a thoroughly modern town; there’s very little left of its medieval charm. Occasionally, though, you find bits of the older town amidst the 19th and 20th century buildings. I kind of love this fountain, with its whimsical lions looking for all the world like they’re practicing their embouchure. It is […]

Prompted by the ever-smiling Ernesto, we stopped into Pulpería A Garnacha for a late lunch. And what a lunch! Pulpo: boiled octopus tentacles snipped into bite-sized pieces and drizzled with olive oil and paprika. And the wine was served in bowls. Bowls! I think we also had some Caldo Gallego. In any case, I would highly recommend! Date: 30 April […]

The town of Melide is justly famous for its pulpo – boiled octopus. This is Ernesto. His pulperia is located just as you enter the central part of the city proper. It includes a window overlooking the Camino route, through which you can see him prepare this tasty dish. Of course we stopped in for a late lunch. Date: 30 […]

This Roman bridge over the Río Furelos leads us into the village of the same name. Furelos is slowly being absorbed by the nearby city of Melide. In the 12th century, the village and its pilgrim hostel were under the ownership of the knights known as the Hospitallers of San Juan. It should therefore be no surprise that the parish church, […]

We left the rural blacktop road for an even more rustic road, which eventually led us to the tiny village of Leboreiro, officially named Santa María do Leboreiro. The village has a Cruceiro, a tiny church dedicated to Santa María (of course), and no café. The village, which now has a population of just under 70 people, was once much more […]

I don’t know for sure where this is, except that it’s somewhere after the sign announcing that you’ve entered the Province of A Coruña. It might be Campanilla. In any case, you can see signs of the weather we’ve been fighting all morning since we left Palas de Rei: rainy and windy with occasional bursts of storm. I noted in […]