Pilgrims on the Way

The village of Cacabelos – when we finally got into it – had a distinctly modern, suburban look to it. It was almost six in the evening at this point, and we were overwarm, tired, and cranky. Fortunately, the albergue was not too far off. Date: 23 April 2013Place: Cacabelos (Region of El Bierzo, Province of León, Castilla y León, […]

Although we have long since passed a sign announcing the village of Cacabelos, we had yet to see anything resembling a bar or café. Fortunately, there was a public fountain. We took full advantage of it in our attempt to cool down. Date: 23 April 2013Place: Cacabelos (Region of El Bierzo, Province of León, Castilla y León, Spain)Today started: Molinaseca […]

This photo was taken just after 5:30 in the evening on a day so hot that I’m pretty sure we were both suffering from heat exhaustion. And now we’re road walking? Ugh! Still, just 1.3km until Cacabelos, which we had suddenly decided was our stopping point for the day. Date: 23 April 2013Place: between Camponaraya and Cacabelos (Region of El […]

We haven’t seen much in the way of vineyards since we left La Rioja. Like those points far to the east, El Bierzo is wine country. And what wines! So very tasty, and so very difficult to obtain outside of Spain. Like the vines in La Rioja, these are very much in the “zombie hands emerging from the earth” phase […]

Given the heat wave we’re struggling with here in the PNW, it seems appropriate that at this stage of our 2013 Camino adventure, we were struggling with exactly the same thing. Heat makes me stupid, and heat makes me slow. Francine, who was only walking her fourth Camino day, would have struggled anyway, but add to that the heat, and […]

We struggled on in the heat of the day. We were slow, and we were cranky, but this odd sign unaccountably cheered me up. Although we were not yet in Galicia proper – and Galicia, as the locals will never tire of reminding you, is a Celtic country – we were definitely in its cultural orbit. Three years later, we […]

Since nothing was open in Columbrianos except for a small pastry shop, we pushed on. At about a quarter after three, we found an open bar in the village of Fuentes Nuevas and stopped in for a tasty cold beverage. In Spain, the local bars and cafés typically only carry one kind of beer, so you don’t say “cerveza” to […]

By the time I took this photo in Columbrianos, it was two in the afternoon, it was ridiculously hot outside, and we were desperate for some shade and a drink. Our pace, never speedy to begin with, had slowed to the point that we were discussing cutting our day short. We had hoped to make it to Villafranca, but that […]

We walked for a brief while through vineyards before spotting the village of Columbrianos. Records of this place date to the early tenth century, and it was a prosperous town for a long time. During the medieval era, at one point its official border was partway into what is now the city of Ponferrada. These days it’s a sleepy farming […]