Pilgrims on the Way

Molinaseca is definitely a Camino town, with a beautiful medieval center with plenty of albergues and cafés and bars and restaurants, not to mention a couple of beautiful churches. We, however, were exhausted and didn’t see much of it. This is definitely a place I’d like to explore more. We lunched here in 2016. Date: 22 April 2013Place: Molinaseca (Region […]

Molinaseca is a charming little town, as perhaps can be glimpsed from this photo near the edge. The Camino enters town on this bridge, with the Ermita de Nuestra Señora de las Angustias on the right, and the lower portions of the town (as seen on yesterday’s photo) off to the left. You can see a better panorama in the […]

Somehow we ended up on the road for a long time, which I think was not the original plan. In any case, we made it to the town of Molinaseca at about 5:30 PM absolutely exhausted. We were all a little crabby the last 5km or so, and my ankle was bruised and screaming by the time we made it […]

While walking the scrubby hills and dales of the Camino, we came upon quite a large flock of sheep. In the mix, you can see some horses as well. There was also one very bored looking sheepdog, but he’s not in this particular photo. Date: 22 April 2013Place: between Riego de Ambrós and Molinaseca (Region of El Bierzo, Province of […]

These sorts of treacherous granite descents (and ascents!) are not uncommon on the Camino. Francine calls them dragon spines. This particular one just as you’re leaving Riego de Ambrós is definitely one of the more challenging. It looks nice enough in this photo, but in 2016 it had been raining, and I slipped and fell. Date: 22 April 2013Place: leaving […]

Although Riego de Ambrós is tidy to the point of almost being one of those Camino Disneyland-type villages, there are corners here and there that exude the charm and tranquility that you can still find where the old peeks out through the new. Date: 22 April 2013Place: Riego de Ambrós (Region of El Bierzo, Province of León, Castilla y León, […]

Like El Acebo before it, Riego de Ambrós is a clean and well-kept village. Tidy, even. It is, however, seemingly bereft of inhabitants. The official population is 40, which seems high to me. Three years later, in 2016, we stayed here and it was as if there were no people but pilgrims here after dark. Date: 22 April 2013Place: Riego […]

A little bit before Riego de Ambrós the Camino leaves the highway in favour of walking on a rough path somewhat beside it. The slow descent into this village is nowhere near the goat path down into El Acebo, but it’s a brief respite before a really big drop coming up. This is a good view of the two sorts […]

After El Acebo, we’ve got some roadwalking. The view, however, more than makes up for this, as we look into the panorama of the great valley of El Bierzo. This region, squashed between León and Galicia, has its own distinctive culture and history, which we will explore somewhat in the coming days. Date: 22 April 2013Place: between El Acebo and […]