Via Lemovicensis: Day 42

Today was a day of rest. It was also a day of errands and writing. 

The first necessity was new shoes. After putting about 1200 km on my previous pair, they were done. I was very fortunate in that the best of the pilgrim shops here carries the brand and model that I prefer. 

As I came out of the shop, I ran into Herve. We went for a coffee, and then headed over to the post office. I had a number of items, including a guidebook, from France that I no longer need in Spain. So I mailed it all to a drop point in Santiago, and I will pick it up in a month.

We also headed over to another sporting good store so Herve could pick up an additional water bottle and I could replace my shower flip-flops.

Then we headed over to a pharmacy to pick up electrolytes, as well as some sunburn cream. Not that I’m sunburned, but I’m pretty sure I will be, and this stuff is amazing. And of course, it’s only available in France.

The final errand of the day was to go to the pilgrim office. Here, they stamp your pilgrim passport and provide you information about the weather forecast in the Pyrenees, and some good, up-to-the-minute information about the albergues in Spain.

Tomorrow, they say, will be sunny and hot. 

After this, Herve and I parked ourselves at the crêperie across from the church and watched the new pilgrims come into town as the trains arrived.

We ended up having lunch there. And then staying a couple of hours. 

I had to return to my gîte at this point and spend about an hour doing my annual Virtus training for my parish volunteer job.

After this I went into the church of Saint-Jean to pray, and to light a candle for Francine. This church, which has been the beginning of so many pilgrimages across Spain, is dear to my heart. A forest of candles stands at the feet of Our Lady of the Holy Rosary, imploring her intercession. And Francine’s is among them.

Luc and Louis-Marie arrived in Saint-Jean, just a day after us, and we arranged to meet up with them after they showered and got settled. 

We all four got together for a pilgrim reunion. Even Yves called in from somewhere a hundred kilometers or so vaguely west of us. 

Tomorrow we climb up over the pass into Spain. 

Date: 20 May 2026

Place: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port  

Today’s Photos!