Category: Liminal Space

In the old town center of Nájera, we come to the grand monastery of Santa María la Real. It was established by King García Sánchez III of Navarra in 1052 as the place of burial of the Kings and Queens of Navarra. After his death in 1054, the monastery and royal pantheon was granted to the monks of Cluny by […]

We arrived in the village of Ventosa and were delighted to discover this charming and well-appointed albergue, the Albergue de Peregrinos San Saturnino. Although we had only walked 20km today, we were all pretty beat. The flags in the photo will give you an idea of the winds we were walking into most of the afternoon. Date: 08 April 2013Place: […]

The reporter who took yesterday’s photo graciously agreed to take another using my camera-phone. For this one, we shifted over so she could get the doors of the great Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Asunción in the background. It’s much like many other Navarran churches on the outside, but wait until you see inside. Once again, from left to right: […]

This beautiful façade of the Iglesia de Santiago el Real looks down a narrow little street, which of course is the Calle Santiago. This is a large church, and I hope someday to properly visit the interior. I can’t imagine that this is the main entrance, but this is Spain – who knows? Date: 08 April 2013Place: Logroño (La Rioja, […]

Just down the street from the Ermita de San Gregorio, we come to this slightly cattywampus building. Built in 1555 as the house of a local aristocrat, the Duquesa de la Victoria, it has served over the centuries as a home, a wine warehouse, and most recently a neighbourhood restaurant. These days, it’s a home once again. Date: 07 April […]

As we walk along Calle Ruavieja, we come to this shrine, dedicated to San Gregorio Ostiense, who died in this spot on May 9, 1044. He was Abbot of the monastery of Saints Cosmas and Damian in Rome before he was made Bishop of Ostia and later a Cardinal and special envoy to Navarra by Pope John XVIII. Date: 07 […]

We bid farewell to San Pedro and walk through the old town to make our escape. Note the statue in the old city gates. Ahead lies the rolling hills of Navarra, giving way at eventually to the rolling hills of La Rioja. Date: 07 April 2013Place: Viana (Navarra, Spain) Maps!

This is, I presume, the outside door to the sacristy of the Iglesia de Santa María de Viana. In any case, it’s in about the correct position to be, and it faces our picnic spot on the plaza. I just love the patterns made using the river stones on the porch before the door. Date: 07 April 2013Place: Viana (Navarra, […]

Yesterday I told the story of the death of Cesare Borgia. This is the façade of the Iglesia de Santa María de Viana where he is buried. We arrived just as Mass was letting out. Shortly after this photo was taken, Patrick and I went up to the open doors of the church to look for the tomb and to […]

Welcome to Viana! The town continues to be proud of its largest claim to fame: it was here that the infamous Cesare Borgia met his doom. Imprisoned in Spain by his “uncle’s” successor as Pope, Cesare escaped and became a mercenary captain for his brother-in-law, King Juan III of Navarre, who was dealing with a civil war. During the siege […]