Pilgrims on the Way

As we walked through the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it village of Las Herrerías that may or may not be part of La Faba, we finally came upon the stables we saw advertised back in Ambasmetas. While the overwhelming majority of pilgrims walk, about 8% or so bicycle, and another 1% ride horseback. No word on the percentage of pilgrims who just take these […]

The intrepid pilgrims enter the village of La Faba. Here we would have a drink and some snackage in a funky albergue/bar called El Refugio CaminArte. By this time, we were halfway up the mountain. Date: 25 April 2016 Place: La Faba (Castilla y León, Spain) Today’s Map:

As we continue our climb up into the Cantabrian Mountains and, eventually, Galicia, the Camino follows a country road towards the village of La Faba. To our left, the land drops away into an idyllic valley, complete with meadowland, winding river, and scattered cattle. Despite the heat of the day and the climb, it was a little slice of heaven. […]

For today’s Feast of Saint James (July 25), we’re taking this photo a little out of order. May you have all the joy of the feast! This statue of Santiago – Saint James – may be found in the Iglesa de Santa Magdalena in the village of Vega de Valcarce, which we visited a few days ago in these pages. […]

This is the interior of the Parish Church of San Juan Bautista de Ruitelán. It’s tiny, but for the small population of the village of Ruitelán, it’s almost certainly sufficient. What fascinates me is that the central image on the reredos isn’t Saint John the Baptist, as one would suspect, but the pietà. I believe that’s Saint John on the […]

In addition to an afternoon of uphill walking, the sun was shining with a fierceness. You can almost feel the sweat just looking at the photo – and she’s in the shade! Fortunately, it would get a little cooler as we gained altitude. Here Francine walks past the tiny Parish Church of San Juan Bautista de Ruitelán. We’ll take a […]

The stream rather grandly named Río Valcarce flows beside the Camino through the tiny village of Ruitelán (population 31, plus cows). These curious locks weren’t the only ones in the neighbourhood. What they’re precisely for, I couldn’t say. Irrigation, perhaps? Flood control? Date: 25 April 2016 Place: Ruitelán (Castilla y León, Spain) Today’s Map:

We entered the village of Ruitelán, the latest of a string of villages in this valley, at about eleven o’clock. In the background you can again see the flying highway bridges that tower over this little valley. For reference, we will need to climb up to the level of that highway in the next several hours, and then further upward […]

As we leave the village of Vega de Valcarce, the Camino is carefully watched by the ruins of the Castillo de Sarracín on the hills above. Despite the similarity of names, the castle has nothing to do with the Saracens, except perhaps that the Moors destroyed the original Christian castle on this site in the year 714. It was rebuilt […]