Walking the Camino de Santiago
They say you meet the Devil three times on the Camino. While I cannot (yet) attest to the veracity of this tradition, I can verify that his temptations are to be found everywhere. Despite such temptation, yesterday we completed the long, long walk from Palas do Rey to Arzúa, aka “Cheesetown”, a distance of about 30 km in the pouring […]
» Read moreWe’ve made excellent progress the past two days through the undulating farm and forest lands of Galicia. We’ve certainly had our share of weird weather en route, from sudden hailstorms to today’s gale-force winds, but overall it’s been sunny and cool. In my experience so far, there are three basic kinds of people walking the Camino: pilgrims, tourists, and hikers. […]
» Read more27 April A beautiful, mystical walk in the forests of Galicia this morning. Unfortunately, thanks to a drunken Englishman with a penchant for snoring and shouting in his sleep, Francine got very little sleep last night. By the time we got to Sarria, she was done for the day. We had a last lunch with Eamon and bid him adieu […]
» Read more26 April We walked through the Galician mists today, to the magnificent monastery of Samos. While we were enjoying our second breakfast, who should come ’round the corner but my NZ buddy Eamon! Lunched in Triacastela and convinced him to accompany us to Samos. He was not disappointed. Galicia seems like home – almost a faerie-tale country – and the […]
» Read more25 April Today was a day of slow, grinding climbs, as we crossed our final mountain pass of the Camino. The town of O Ceibreiro is more or less at the top, and we arrived at the same time as two busloads of German tourists. The view was amazing. The village was the site of a eucharistic miracle in the […]
» Read more24 April Fun hiking morning with Smith and Terra, Santiago, and Stella and Diego (from Brazil). In Villafranca del Bierzo, we mailed home a box of souvenirs and various unneeded items. Lunch in Pereje with Smith and Terra, Ian from Glasgow (who we met walking into the village), and Anya from Nuremburg. Then, the heat set in. Progress slowed to […]
» Read more23 April On paper, this should have been our easiest day. Unfortunately, a heatwave hit. We arrived in Ponferrada in good shape and good time, but there we found the old Templar castle. We waited until it opened at 11, and we spent over an hour exploring both the castle and its collection of medieval manuscripts. Not to mention the […]
» Read more22 April 2013 One of the great traditions of the modern Camino is to leave a stone at Cruz de Ferro, an iron cross marking (more or less) the highest spot on the Camino route in Spain. This, we did today. In an earlier entry, I talked about my stone, and some of the meanings behind it. I put down […]
» Read moreWe’ve been without wifi for several days now, so I thought I’d post a quick note in lieu of full updates to follow later. We’re currently having breakfast in a bar in Samos, across the street from the stupendous monastery where we spent the night. The bar has wifi (obviously), but we need to get on our way. Chant Mass […]
» Read more21 April 2013 Francine´s second day, and the Benedictine connection continues. We were misinformed about the local Mass schedule, and it briefly appeared that we would have to wait until 10am for a Mass, meaning we wouldn´t be on the road until 11 or later. Fortunately, we were told that there was an evening Mass (7pm) at our intended destination, […]
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