Tentative Itinerary

It is said that no plan survives contact with the enemy1. To this I would add that no plan survives contact with the Camino. Nevertheless, and with some sense of trepidation, I offer here my plan for my “long Camino”. This is a total of 65 days walking (plus a scheduled Zero day in Burgos). Some days are short/half days.

A buffer of several days is built in at the end to account for unexpected Zero days due to fatigue or injury or someplace so spectacular I need to spend a day exploring it.

There are few notes for the Spanish section, as we’ve walked that before and have a vague idea of what to expect.

Place names in CAPITALS have a population of more than 2500. An asterisk (*) following indicates a population of more than 10,000. Place names in bold indicate that I’ve already booked a place to sleep there.

To Begin

Date              StartEndNotes
Tue, Aug 15, 2023SEATTLEFly to LYON*
Wed, Aug 16, 2023TrainLE PUY-EN-VELAYArrive in Lyon. Take train to Le Puy. Arrive in Le Puy and SLEEP.
Thu, Aug 17, 2023LE PUY-EN-VELAYLE PUY-EN-VELAYZero day: adjusting to time change and exploring Le Puy. Get credencial/stamp in Cathedral.

The Via Podiensis in France

StageDate              StartEndKMRegionNotes
1Fri, Aug 18, 2023LE PUY-EN-VELAYSaint-Privat-d’Allier23.5VelayPilgrim Mass begins at 7am, and then it’s out the door and walking! Uphill most of the day, with the descent happening over the last 4km.
2Sat, Aug 19, 2023Saint-Privat-d’AllierSaugues19.0Velay / MargerideOne of the most challenging stages of the whole walk. Down into a river valley, and then back up again. Lunch in Monistrol (bottom of valley) is the last café until Saugues, so stock up on snacks and water. Museum of the Beast in Saugues!
3Sun, Aug 20, 2023SauguesDomaine du Sauvage19.5MargerideA whole lotta uphill. Domaine du Sauvage is a farm complex in the middle of nowhere (originally a Templar commandery) and MUST be reserved (demi-pension).
4Mon, Aug 21, 2023Domaine du SauvageAumont-Aubrac28.2MargerideStock up at Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole (lunch), because the next grocery is in Aumont-Aubrac.
5Tue, Aug 22, 2023Aumont-AubracNasbinals27.3AubracNo support today. Stock up at Aumont-Aubrac, because the next grocery is in Nasbinals! Nasbinals is the largest town in the Aubrac region, with a population of 525. Long but relatively easy day.
6Wed, Aug 23, 2023NasbinalsSaint-Chély- d’Aubrac16.5AubracNo support today. Afternoon descent.
7Thu, Aug 24, 2023Saint-Chély- d’AubracSaint-Côme-d’Olt16.0AubracNo support today. Stock up at Saint-Chély-d’Aubrac as there is no food available until end of day. A long downhill trek.
8Fri, Aug 25, 2023Saint-Côme-d’OltEstaing21.3Lot River ValleyToday’s route is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Elevenses in city of ESPALION.
9Sat, Aug 26, 2023EstaingEspeyrac22.8Lot River ValleyStock up on food and full water in Estaing, as there is NOTHING until Golinhac, which is 14 km into the day. Long, steep morning climb. A late lunch in Golinhac, then a descent into Espeyrac.
10Sun, Aug 27, 2023EspeyracConques12.5Lot River ValleyUse caution on steep descent into Conques. With any luck, a half-day to explore Conques. Stay at the abbey.
11Mon, Aug 28, 2023ConquesLivinhac-le-Haut25.8Lot River ValleyA strenuous day with a steep morning climb. Late lunch (?) in city of DECAZEVILLE.
12Tue, Aug 29, 2023Livinhac-le-HautFIGEAC*24.4QuercyToday’s route is a UNESCO World Heritage site. FIGEAC is the largest city so far. Try to get here early, as there is an Egyptian museum and a Templar Commandery as well as two churches worth visiting.
13Wed, Aug 30, 2023FIGEAC*Lacapelle-Marival22.8QuercyClimb up to the Causset de Gramat, a limestone plateau, on the GR6.
14Thu, Aug 31, 2023Lacapelle-MarivalGRAMAT24.0QuercyNote that there’s a shortcut along a more traditional route which, if needed, will cut today to 21.6km. In either case, this is an easy walk.
15Fri, Sep 01, 2023GRAMATRocamadour12.4QuercyShort walk, with half a day to explore this ancient Marian shrine. Stock up on food, as there’s nothing tomorrow until Mountfacucon, some 20km into tomorrow’s walk.
16Sat, Sep 02, 2023RocamadourLabastide-Murat25.5QuercyFollow the GR46 towards Vers. A sharp ascent out of Rocamadour. No services for the first 20km. Stock up for tomorrow, as there’s nothing.
17Sun, Sep 03, 2023Labastide-MuratVers24.2QuercyNo services, other than water. Be sure to bring food!
18Mon, Sep 04, 2023VersCAHORS16.3QuercyAn easy walk, with half a day to explore CAHORS is the largest city of the Quercy region. Old city and domed Romanesque cathedral are not to be missed.
19Tue, Sep 05, 2023CAHORSLascarbanes23.5QuercyShort but wicked steep climb out of CAHORS – stairs! This is the last bit of strenuous terrain until the Pyrenees. Not a lot of support today.
20Wed, Sep 06, 2023LascarbanesLauzerte23.8QuercyMontcuq is a good spot for second breakfast / early lunch and has a beautiful Gothic church.
21Thu, Sep 07, 2023LauzerteMOISSAC27.1QuercyNo food or water after Dufort (mid-day), so pack well. Vespers at abbey.
22Fri, Sep 08, 2023MOISSACAuvillar21.5GasconyAlong the Garonne Canal. September 8 is the feast of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary.
23Sat, Sep 09, 2023AuvillarLECTOURE32.8GasconyLong, but lots of towns and villages. LECTOURE Cathedral, Roman museum, thermal spa.
24Sun, Sep 10, 2023LECTOURECONDOM32.1GasconyThe “Route D’Artagnan”. La Romieu (afternoon) very much worth exploring. CONDOM Cathedral 6pm Mass and blessing. Recommended gear shop here, if anything is needed. On a clear day, you can see the Pyrenees.
25Mon, Sep 11, 2023CONDOMÉauze33.8GasconyLong but easy. Center of Roman habitation (and ruins). Possible to split stage in two (at Montréal-du-Gers) to take in all of the sites. Not a lot of support today, despite a long string the villages.
26Tue, Sep 12, 2023ÉauzeNogaro21.0GasconySupply at Nogaro – tomorrow is a big, flat empty.
27Wed, Sep 13, 2023NogaroAIRE-SUR-L’ADOUR27.6GasconyA big, flat empty. AIRE-SUR-L’ADOUR has a cathedral and a UNESCO-listed church, Saint-Quitterie. Stock up.
28Thu, Sep 14, 2023AIRE-SUR-L’ADOURArzacq-Arraziguet33.8GasconyFirst yellow arrows. No food or water before Miramont-Sensacq (mid-day), so pack well.
29Fri, Sep 15, 2023Arzacq-ArraziguetArthez-de-Béarn30.2GasconyPyrenees definitely visible now. No cover. Very little support.
30Sat, Sep 16, 2023Arthez-de-BéarnNavarrenx31.6GasconyLong but easy. Some hills near the end.
31Sun, Sep 17, 2023NavarrenxAroue19.5Basque CountryNo support – pack food and water.
32Mon, Sep 18, 2023AroueOstabat-Asme24.0Basque CountryThree different route options today. Zero support – not even water until Larribar. Large climb near the end of the day.
33Tue, Sep 19, 2023Ostabat-AsmeSaint-Jean-Pied-de-Port22.2Basque CountryLots of road walking.

The Camino Francés in Spain

StageDate              StartEndKMRegionNotes
34Wed, Sep 20, 2023Saint-Jean-Pied-de-PortRoncesvalles26.0Basque CountryPYRENEES – stock up as the only support today is in Orisson, about 8km into the day. May need to pre-book Roncesvalles.
35Thu, Sep 21, 2023RoncesvallesZubiri21.5NavarraRough descent into Zubiri.
36Fri, Sep 22, 2023ZubiriPAMPLONA*22.0Navarra
37Sat, Sep 23, 2023PAMPLONA*PUENTE LA REINA24.0Navarra
38Sun, Sep 24, 2023PUENTE LA REINAESTELLA*22.0Navarra
39Mon, Sep 25, 2023ESTELLA*Los Arcos22.0Navarra
40Tue, Sep 26, 2023Los ArcosLOGROÑO*28.0La RiojaLong day
41Wed, Sep 27, 2023LOGROÑO*NÁJERA31.0La RiojaAnother long day
42Thu, Sep 28, 2023NÁJERASANTO DOMINGO de la Calzada21.0La Rioja
43Fri, Sep 29, 2023SANTO DOMINGO de la CalzadaBelorado23.0Castilla y León
44Sat, Sep 30, 2023BeloradoSan Juan de Ortega24.0Castilla y León
45Sun, Oct 01, 2023San Juan de OrtegaBURGOS*27.5Castilla y León / The Meseta
46Mon, Oct 02, 2023BURGOS*BURGOS*0.0Castilla y León / The MesetaZero Day
47Tue, Oct 03, 2023BURGOS*Hontanas31.5Castilla y León / The MesetaHonestly, all of the stages after Burgos are the vaguest supposition.
48Wed, Oct 04, 2023HontanasBoadilla del Camino26.0Castilla y León / The Meseta
49Thu, Oct 05, 2023Boadilla del CaminoCarrión de los Condes25.0Castilla y León / The MesetaLots of options for stopping places from here to León.
50Fri, Oct 06, 2023Carrión de los CondesMoratinos31.9Castilla y León / The MesetaOctober 6 is the feast of Sainte-Foy
51Sat, Oct 07, 2023MoratinosEl Burgo Ranero28.4Castilla y León / The Meseta
52Sun, Oct 08, 2023El Burgo RaneroMansilla de las Mulas19.0Castilla y León / The Meseta
53Mon, Oct 09, 2023Mansilla de las MulasLEÓN20.0Castilla y León / The Meseta
54Tue, Oct 10, 2023LEÓNVillar de Mazarife22.0Castilla y León / The Meseta
55Wed, Oct 11, 2023Villar de MazarifeASTORGA25.0Castilla y León / The Meseta
56Thu, Oct 12, 2023ASTORGAFoncebadón27.0Castilla y LeónOctober 12 is the Fiesta Nacional de España – Día del Pilar (Feast of Our Lady of the Pillar)
57Fri, Oct 13, 2023FoncebadónPONFERRADA*29.0Castilla y León / El Bierzo
58Sat, Oct 14, 2023PONFERRADA*VILLAFRANCA DEL BIERZO28.5Castilla y León / El Bierzo
59Sun, Oct 15, 2023VILLAFRANCA DEL BIERZOLa Faba23.0Galicia
60Mon, Oct 16, 2023La FabaTriacastela25.5GaliciaIf feeling froggy, could make it to Samos for a 35.5km day.
61Tue, Oct 17, 2023TriacastelaSamos10.0GaliciaA very short day. Potentially skipping Samos would save a day.
62Wed, Oct 18, 2023SamosMorgade23.5Galicia
63Thu, Oct 19, 2023MorgadeLigonde26.0Galicia
64Fri, Oct 20, 2023LigondeMELIDE24.0Galicia
65Sat, Oct 21, 2023MELIDEBrea30.0Galicia
66Sun, Oct 22, 2023BreaSANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA*25.5Galicia

Home Again

Date              StartEndNotes
Mon, Oct 23, 2023SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA*SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA*These days are reserved for injury or additional rest days.

If I don’t use them up earlier in the trip, I hope to spend at least a couple of days in Santiago.
Tue, Oct 24, 2023
Wed, Oct 25, 2023
Thu, Oct 26, 2023
Fri, Oct 27, 2023SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA*fly to DUBLIN*, then BOSTON*, then homeI have a 17 hour layover in Dublin on a Friday night. What could possibly go wrong?

TOTAL DISTANCE: 1,579 km / 980 miles (give or take)

  1. Attributed to Helmuth von Moltke the Elder.

3 comments

  • Pingback: Tentative Itinerary for my Long Camino – The World is Quiet Here

  • Thomas McGrath

    I’ve been looking up the towns and villages you mention on Wikipedia as you travelled through France. I will probably continue to do it now that you are in Spain. Two things. 1. The Wikipedia maps seem to show you much closer to the Bay of Biscay than the map accompanying this Camino. 2. The English Wikipedia entries for most of these towns and villages are woefully inadequate and could use some additions by a good writer who had visited. Some could even use photos.

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