Via Podiensis: Crossing and Descent

Today I once again decided to leave early – just before 6 AM – to try to beat the afternoon heat. This time, however, I had a pain au chocolate in my hand.

After a moment of panic at not being able to find an unlocked door to get out of my gîte, I finally found a door I hadn’t noticed before, which let me out into the street and right into the path of Alex, who just left his gîte across the street.

We left town along the main street, and then took a sharp right turn onto a country road which alternated between gravel and dirt through woods and fields, generally going uphill as it went. 

Suddenly we came to a fork in the road, and we were now walking on smooth asphalt through cow country.

And then the Camino left the road through a little maze of wooden posts and fences, probably designed to prevent cow passage, onto a dirt path through the open field. And still, we climbed.

We passed through a gate for cow containment, and then began a long looping descent. All the while, we had a loose stone wall on our left-hand side and vast open fields with cows an our right.

Then another gate, and another hill.

And so it went, gate after gate, hill after hill, endless golden fields, walking with the cows. Finally, near a grand, if mysterious, building, we came to a sharp downhill and the final gate. Just a little bit of pleasant forest path and we were in the town of Aubrac at 8:00 AM. 

We stopped for a short while in an outdoor café which appeared to be open, but there was no one attending it. We had a rather grand snack of cookies and grapes, and Alex pushed on while I went to visit the church.

It was locked. So that’s my third locked church in France.

Alex was already out of sight, and it was now umbrella time. The Way out of Aubrac is along a two-lane highway. I soon got a glimpse of what is to come, as to the left I could see the lowlands spreading out before me. This is, apparently, the edge of the Aubrac plateau, and soon I must descend.

And descend I do, starting down a rocky dirt path which occasionally widened out into a field of rocks and boulders. It was a rough go, and again I was thankful for my hiking poles. The path eventually got a little easier.

Much of it was under a beautiful forest canopy, which made the whole umbrella thing seem a little dumber than usual, but then we would come out into the open, and the sun was oppressively hot. In those moments I was glad I had the umbrella.

There were places where the path was smoother, as well as places where it was relatively flat, or even briefly uphill. Overall, though, it was a relatively gentle downhill among the rocks and boulders.

Finally I left the forest altogether and soon joined a rough gravel road. I could see a stunning vista before me, the lowlands lush and green with forest and farm.

Here I turned again onto a more or less rough path of dirt and stone, ever downward. The only brief respite came in the village of Belvézet, where there was some less steep roadwalking. But then it was back to more of the same.

More and more, I was under the cover of the trees, and at one point I crossed over a rushing mountain stream. Along the path now there were moss covered tumbledown rough stone walls. I could occasionally smell blackberries. It was all a very stark change from yesterday.

At some point near a ruined building, I found a picnic table and used the opportunity to stow my umbrella, which had become increasingly irrelevant in the forest.

I continued along the forest path for a while, until there was a sudden upwards climb culminating in the path intersecting a blacktop country road. The Camino took a sharp left turn along that road, which I followed down into the lovely village of Saint-Chély- d’Aubrac. 

I met Alex walking down the street, and together we walked into a grocery store to procure some supplies for second breakfast. Afterwards we found a shady spot and ate. Then he headed off to Saint-Côme-d’Olt, where I plan to go tomorrow.

I headed over to the tourist office to see if I could procure a gîte for the night. Tonight is the first night I haven’t booked in advance.

Having obtained the locations of two likely gîtes, neither one of which opened until 2 PM, I did a quick little reconnoiter of the village, ending up at the church of Notre-Dame-des-Pauvres (Our Lady of the Poor). 

This 11th century church was entirely rebuilt during the Hundred Years War. From the outside it doesn’t look at all remarkable, but the instant you walk in the door you are assailed by sign and symbol and beauty.

Much of the interior artwork appears to be from the 17th and 18th centuries. The high altar features an amazing painting of Jesus being taken down from the Cross, flanked by gold statues of Saint Roche and Saint Éloi. There are four side chapels: the Sacred Heart of Jesus, the Immaculate Heart of Mary, Saint Joseph, and our Lady of Lourdes. 

This last was originally a Rosary Chapel. Indeed, the altar features a painting of the Virgin Mary gifting the rosary to Saint Dominic, and on the central statue of Virgin and Child, the hands of both figures appear to be holding something that is no longer there, presumably rosaries. 

The chapel also features a statue of our Lady of Lourdes and another facing it of Saint Bernadette praying on her knees. Both of these statues have rosaries.

The rear of the church itself features a curious two-tiered gallery. Based on the existence of a rotating music holder in the top gallery, this was where the choir sent. I’m not entirely certain who the lower gallery was for.

After touring the church and praying there a while, I went to the local bar for a beer and to write this blog post. 

And then it’s off to find a gîte. 

Addendum: I have a bed at the gîte, thanks to the tourist office for sending me here and to Delphiné from Brittany, who I ran into in the lobby, who helped with some translation issues.

Date: 23 August 2023

Place: Saint-Chély-d’Aubrac

Today started: Nasbinals 

Today’s Photos!