One Year Ago: the Royal Monastery of Samos

(from my journal) Royal Monastery of Samos 26 April 2013 Francine and I had a shorter walk today to Samos through beautiful Galician misty farmland and woods with Anja. During second breakfast, who should come ’round the bend but Eamon! Lunched in Triacastela and the mist finally more or less lifted. Arrived in Samos with Eamon and Francine and booked […]

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Eternal Rest and Everlasting Light

Requiem æternam dona eis, Domine: et lux perpetua luceat eis. In memoria æterna erit iustus, ab auditione mala non timebit. Eternal rest grant unto her, O Lord: and let perpetual light shine upon her. She shall be justified in everlasting memory, and shall not fear evil reports. Absolve, Domine, animas omnium fidelium defunctorum ab omni vinculo delictorum et gratia tua […]

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One Year Ago: Cows! And a Great Evening in Fonfría

(from my journal) Fonfría 25 April 2013 First Breakfast in Vega Today we traveled, on and off, with Iain, Anja, and a lovely Korean lady named Isabel (or, as I like to call her, Bob). The climb to O’Cebreiro was steep and rough, quite the toughest climb so far… but one. Cows with Cowbells. Francine was so enchanted with the […]

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One Year Ago: Slowly, Slowly

(from my journal) Vega de Valcarce 24 April 2013 On the Road Again! Where’s the Coffee? Fun hiking day in the morning, walking off and on with Smith and Tara, Santiago, and Stella and Diego. A Beautiful Morning! WHERE. IS. COFFEE?? Looking Like a Painting Aaaah. Coffeeeeee. Sculptor’s Studio just outside of Cacabelos In Villafranca del Bierzo, I mailed a […]

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Saint George and the Dragon

“Fairy Tales are more than true; not because they tell us that dragons exist, but because they tell us that dragons can be beaten.” (G.K. Chesterton) Today’s feast is of the great martyr, Saint George. Pious legends of dragon slaying notwithstanding, George was a soldier of the Roman army who was killed during the persecutions of Diocletian in the early […]

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One Year Ago: “Is Spain”

(from my journal) Cacabelos 23 April 2013 On paper, this should have been our easiest day. Unfortunately, it was 27° C. We arrived in Ponferrada in good shape and only slightly behind schedule. But there was the Castle. We waited almost an hour for it to open at 11AM(ish), and we then spent over an hour exploring the structure and […]

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One Year Ago: Cruz de Ferro

(from my journal) Molinaseca 22 April 2013 Saying Goodbye to our Hospitaleros at Refugio Gaucelmo in Rabanal Too tired to think properly. Spectacular climb to Cruz de Ferro, Francine, Mark, and I. Saw some peregrinos there we had prviously met in Rabanal. Saw a forest fire in the hills – two helicopters put it out. Lord, may this stone, a […]

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Laudes Creaturarum

On Earth Day, I’m reminded of the great Canticle of the Sun, written by Saint Francis of Assissi in about 1224. It is, of course, this verse that comes to mind: We praise You, Lord, for Sister Earth, who sustains us with her fruits, colored flowers, and herbs. Although it’s now known as Canticle of the Sun, the author’s original […]

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One Year Ago: Feeling Monkish in Rabanal

(from my journal) Rabanal del Camino 21 April – Sunday! Bishop’s Palace in Astorga, by Gaudi. The Bishop never moved in, and it’s a Museum now. Cathedral in Astorga – Apparently Closed on Sunday Mornings. What is this? Francine’s second day, and the Benedictine connection continues. It was a rough day, and we only reached El Ganso – our intended […]

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One Year Ago: a Bus, a Bridge, and Lavender Fields

(from my journal) Astorga 20 April Breakfasted in the Benedictine hotel with Francine. We walked to the bus station – maybe 1.5 km – and caught the 9:30 bus to Hospital de Órbigo. Walked across town to Puente de Órbigo and walked across (and back across) the astonishing medieval bridge there. Saint Benedict, Pray for Us! My late, lamented hiking […]

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One Year Ago: León and… Francine!

(from my journal) León 19 April In León after a relatively easy 18km walk, made only slightly more difficult by the fact of walking on sidewalks for much of it. This is a fantastic city! It’s probably my favourite so far – other than Pamplona of course. Narrow, crooked streets, bursting with life and commerce. A Lion in León! Plaza […]

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One Year Ago: the Meseta Nears its End

(from my journal) Mansilla de las Mulas 18 April Another long Meseta trek. Breakfast in El Burgo Ranero. Met a cat outside the bar who begged for food. Power-walked after El Burgo Ranero – not sure why the energy. Met back up with Eamon at rest area about 5km before Reliegos where we lunched. Second half of lunch in Reliegos, […]

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Good Friday: God is Dead

Today is Good Friday: the commemoration of the crucifixion and death of Jesus Christ at Calvary. Ecce lignum Crucis, in quo salus mundi pepéndit. Veníte adorémus. Behold the wood of the Cross, on which hung the salvation of the world. Come let us adore. (Missale Romanum: Friday of the Passion of the Lord) He was condemned by his own people, […]

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