The World is Quiet Here

(from my journal) Bercianos del Real Camino 17 April Francine is in flight! Meanwhile, today was another introspective Meseta day – bleak, virtually unchanging scenery pushing thoughts deep within with little distraction. Entered the Province of León. Just before arriving in the town of Sahagún, at a little place called Ermita de la Virgen del Puente, I crossed the halfway […]

(from my journal) Terradillos de los Templarios 16 April / St. Bernadette Leaving Carrión de los Condes Ruined Church Overlooking Carrión de los Condes Monasterio de San Zoilo, just outside Carrión de los Condes Today started out with 17.5 km of nothing. It didn’t get much better as the day went on. Lots of time to think, about what comes […]

(from my journal) Carrión de los Condes 15 April A record-breaking 34km day. The walk to Frómista along the Canal de Castilla was very pleasant. It was not yet hot – we left at 7:30 – and a cool breeze blew through the trees beside the canal as Eamon, Mia, and I walked in the morning light. Lunch in Frómista, […]

(from my journal) Itero de la Vega Third Sunday of Easter Hot. Dry. Sunny. The Meseta – at least what we’ve seen of it so far – has not, however, lived up to its reputation for “flat”. We had two trying climbs today, one before lunch, one after. We left San Bol early, partly with the idea of getting to […]

(from my journal) Arroyo San Bol 13 April Burgos Cathedral this morning. We spent about two hours wandering around through this – superlatives fail me – magnificent? glorious? fantastical? – Gothic marvel. I was a little disturbed by the decision to turn most of it into a museum, seemingly to include virtually all of the little chapels radiating out from […]

(from my journal) The standing stones of Atapuerca, at a place called Fin de Rey.This is where the armies of two brothers – King Garcia of Navarra and King Ferdinand of Castile – met in battle. King Garcia’s defeat and death here paved the way for Castillian dominance of Spain, and pretty much marked the end of the road for […]

(from my journal) Iglesia San Juan de Ortega 11 April 4:20PM Felt much better after a good sleep and three boxes of orange juice. We left Belorado in good form and breakfasted in Tosantos. It was a sunny, if breezy, walk through the countryside we’ve come to expect – brilliant green farm fields in bowl-shaped valleys. Belorado Ermita de Nuestra […]

(from my journal) Belorado 10 April After the severe physical trial of yesterday, we were determined to take it easy, starting late and perhaps only going as far as Grañón or (at the most) Redicilla del Camino, some 11km distant. Before setting out, we explored the Cathedral. Santo Domingo himself is buried in the crypt, and I knelt there a […]

(from my journal) Nájera 09 April La Rioja: Somewhere West of Ventosa, Early Morning The Vineyards of La Rioja Viola with a Shepherd’s Hut We left Ventosa at 7:30, despite our best efforts to be out by 7. Nevertheless, here we are drinking café con leche, 10km on, at 9:30 in the morning. The Streets of Nájera The Streets of […]

(from my journal) Ventosa Annunciation of the Lord Short, difficult day today. The roads were actually fairly easy, but all of us are still feeling yesterday. Cliff left first, and he was soon out of sight. Charlie is taking a rest day or two. Ali, Eamon, Patrick, Petra, Viola, & I set off together. Breakfast in Logroño and then a […]

(from my journal) Logroño Divine Mercy Sunday / 6PM Petra and Claus having breakfast at our wonderful albergue in Los Arcos Charlie, setting out from Los Arcos Today I walked 28 km. From Los Arcos it was a delightfully easy 7 km to Sansol. Onward, we walked over easy roads through olive trees and vineyards, culminating in a steep, undulating […]

(from my journal) Estella Easter Saturday / 5:20AM I woke up early and surprisingly refreshed. I wrote some post cards and will attempt to pack my bag before everyone else it up for breakfast. It’s snowing. Breakfast in Estella. Eamon and Patrick in the corner. Los Arcos 4:30PM Arrived in Los Arcos about 3PM. This morning, Charlie, Eamon, Petra, and […]

(from my journal) Mañeru Easter Friday / Noon Seven AM wake-up call and on the Road. Ali and Cliff remained in Puente la Reina. Ali is getting some help for an allergic reaction to her socks. Cliff’s blisters are getting worse, so he’s planning on resting a few days and taking a bus to Logroño. Morning in Puente la Reina […]

(from my journal) Puente La Reina Easter Thursday / 7pm Arrived exhausted, physically, mentally, emotionally. 9pm Showered. Clothes washed. In a bar looking forward to food and wine. I’m utterly wiped out. My feet are numb and my shoulders ache. This is the day my pilgrimage actually began. Fortified and Ready to Start Walking! We started the day in magnificent […]

(from my journal – the day by day account continues!) Irotz Easter Wednesday / 11AM This morning about 8AM we left Kristof behind and set out for Pamplona! No coffee or breakfast until now. A Farewell to Zubiri Walking mostly with Eamon or by myself. Ali has lagged behind out of sight, and Cliff has pushed ahead, not wanting to […]

(from my journal) Roncesvalles Easter Tuesday / 6:52AM “Wake Up, Little Susie” at 6:30, played on guitar and sung by a very enthusiastic minstrel. Oy. Looking back at Roncesvalles Setting off at last! This is the photo that every pilgrim has taken. Zubiri / Albuergue Zaldiko Easter Tuesday / 3:45PM Set off with Linda from Germany. We had breakfast in […]